Industrial Training At Beximco Textile Limited

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Industrial Training

At

BEXIMCO Textiles Limited

General Information about the factory:

FACTORY NAME: BEXIMCO TEXTILES LIMITED

LOCATION: Beximco Industrial Park,

Chokroborty, (5 km north from DEPZ)

Address:

Operational HQ

Beximco Textiles Limited,

Beximco Industrial Park,

Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur.

Corporate HQ

17 Dhanmondi R/A, Road No. 2

Dhaka -1205, Bangladesh

Phone: 880-2-8611891-5, 8618220-7

9677701-5, 7701165

E-mail: beximchq@bextex.net

Web Site: www.bextex.net

Sponsors:

World Bank, M Arubeni

CDC, DEG.

Sonali Bank

Local office- Motejheel C/A, Dhaka-1000.

City Bank N.A.

Chamber Building,

122-124, Motijheel C/A, Dhaka-1000.

State Bank of India,

24-25, Dilkusha C/A, Dhaka.

Standard Chatard Bank ,

18-20, Motijheel C/A, Dhaka-1000.

BEX TEX PROFILE

Factory : Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur.

Date of incorporation : 30 May, 1984

Commercial production : 1990

Business line : Manufacturing & Marketing of high

Quality fabric.

Listing status : Public listed company

Stock Exchange listing : Dhaka & Chittagong

Authorized capital in Taka : 3000 million Taka

Paid up capital : 1,882.50 Million Taka

Factory Equipment : Different types of weaving,

Knitting, Dyeing, Cutting,

Sewing, Finishing and

Generator machines

Supplied by mostly

Germany, Italy, U.K,

U.S.A., Japan, Taiwan etc.

Number of Shareholders : 37,929

Number of Woven loom installed : 293

Number of spindled installed : 119,520

Number of Denim loom installed : 56

Number of circular knit machine installed: 30

Production Capacity : 28 Million LM

Number of employees : 5181

Web site: www.beximco.org

Owners of the mill:

· A S F Rahman

Chairman.

· Salman F Rahman

Vice Chairman.

· M A Qasem

Director.

· A B Siddiqur Rahman

Director.

MANAGEMENT TEAM:

· Syed Naved Husain, Chief Executive Officer.

· Sardar Ahmed Khan, Chief Operating Officer.

· Ajay Pratap Singh, Chief Financial Officer.

COMPANY SECRETARY:

· Md. Asad Ullah, FCS

Mission:

BEX TEX Ltd. is a full service vendor with strong vertically integrated production facilities as well as creative & analytical capabilities which clearly set us apart from most other South Asian vendors. Each of their activities must benefit and add value to the Common wealth of our Society. We firmly believe that, in the final analysis we are Accountable to each of the Constituents with whom we interact; namely: our Employees, our valued Customers, our suppliers, our business associates, our Shareholders and our fellow Citizens.

Vision:

• Gain market leadership in high value added apparel in USA & Europe.

• Use “Innovation” & “Speed” as prime drivers, rather than cotton & cheap labor.

• Dominate these markets in high quality:

• Men’s, Women’s, Children dresses.
• Shirts ( formal & Casual )
• Blouses (formal & casual), Skirts, Jackets.
• Jeans & Casual non – denim bottoms.
• Knitted tops & bottoms.

LAY OUT OF BTL:

ORGANIZATIONAL CHARTS:

1. Organization chart – Overall

Acting In charge

BDL Factory

Org. chart for Bextex Ltd.:

2. Org. chart of Beximco Textile Ltd. (Fabric Preparation):

Deputy General Manager

  Weaving ManagerPreparatory Manager (Sizing)

Deputy Manager (Winding)

Deputy Manager(Design) Deputy Manager(Maintenance)

Asst. Manager(Warping)

Asst. Manager

Manpower Management:

Section in charge

Production Officer/ Shift in charge

Technician (Mechanical / Electrical)

Senior Operator

Operator

Helper & Mover

Cleaner

Products:

Yarn Products:

• Poplins
• Twills
• Dobbies
• Oxfords
• Seersuckers
• Canvas
• Ribstops in 100% Combed Cotton
• CVC and CVS/TC
• Stretch
• Satten

Yarn Dyed

• Ginghams
• Stripes
• Fil-a-fils/End-on-ends
• Chambrays
• Seersuckers
• Pinpoint
• Oxfords
• Dobbies
• Plaids in 100% Combed Cotton
• CVC and CVS/TC
• Stretch
• Satten

Finishing

• Wrinkle Free
• Easy Care
• Peach
• Chintz
• Paper Touch
• Teflon Coated
• Water Repellent
• Water Resistance
• Rubberized

Dobby Designs

• Herringbones
• Bedford Cords/Coteles
• Waffles and various structures in 100% Combed Cotton
• CVC and CVS/TC

Yarn Count

• Ranging from 7 to 120

Denim Products:

• Chambray : In classic indigo colors ranging from 4oz to 5.5oz/Yd2
• Denim (blue) : In classic indigo colors ranging from 4oz to 15oz/ Yd2
• Denim (black) : In sulfur black color ranging from 4oz to 15oz/ Yd2
• Colored Denim : In a variety of colors – both in sulfur & reactive dyes(warp dyed)
• Over dyed Denim : In a variety of colors on indigo blue & sulfur black
• Stretch Denim : In classic indigo colors ranging from 4.5 oz to 13.75 oz/Yd2

· Calvin Klein

· J.C Penny

· Long Street

· Rocha Wear

· VAN Heusen

· Zara

· Arizona

· H & M

· Levis

· Tom Tailor

· Next

· Antigua

WOVEN FABRIC LOOMS:

No. of looms installed: 299

No. of looms actually operated: 299

Output capacity (Lm.):

Installed capacity: 40,800,000 Lm

Actual production: 34,966,037 Lm

Process Flow Chart:

Ring Bobbin

Winding (cone / cheese)

Warp Preparation Weft Preparation

Warping

Direct Sectional

Sizing

Drawing & Denting

Weaving

Fabric Inspection

Dye House

Final Inspection

Folding

Packing

Delivery

WINDING:

Definition: winding is a process of wounding of yarn to form yarn packages.

Types of winding: there are two types of winding-

1. Soft Winding

2. Hard Winding.

Machine Specification:

Key Accessories: Cone diameter gauge.

Chemical Used: Paraffin wax (rarely used).

WARPING:

Definition: To convert supply yarn package or reprocessed cone into a sheet of yarn comprising of predetermined number, length and tension.

Types of Warping:

1. Direct Warping: for solid dyed grey production.

2. Sectional Warping: for yarn dyed grey production.

Machine Specification:

Count wise Creel Tension in BENINGER:

Figure: Warping Section

Sectional Warping Calculation:

Warp Width × Ends/Section

Width (mm) =

Total no of ends

Total no of ends

Ends/cm =

Warp Width (cm)

dtex× Total no of ends × Cone figure

Feed 1 =

10 × Warp Width (mm) × Density

Dtex = Grams/10000 m Yarn

Density = Grams/dm³

Cone Figure = 5

SIZING:

Definition: the process by which warp yarn is chemically treated for strengthening, reducing hairiness and to make more flexible.

Machine Specification:

Chemical Used for Sizing:

• Adhesive Material: modified starch, synthetic chemicals e.g. Kollotex 5, Avetex K.
• Chemicals: Quicksolon SPR.
• Acrylic Sizing Agent: e.g. size CA20.
• Lubricants Softener: Solwax -50, Mutton Tallow.

Size Recipe for Grey Yarn:

H₂O = 400L

Starch = 50 kg

PVA (SPR) = 32 kg

Acrylic (Trisize) = 15 kg

Soul Wax = 5 kg

Size Recipe for Dyed Yarn:

H₂O = 490L

Starch = 50 kg

PVA (SPR) = 25 kg

Acrylic (Trisize) = 12 kg

Soul Wax = 5 kg

· Size Box Temperature = 85°c

· Cylinder Dryer Temperature = 125°c

· Refractrometer is used to check the dispersion of size materials.

Squeezimg Roller Emersion Roller

Figure: Size Bath

Figure: Sized Beam

Chart for different parameters used in sizing for different construction:

Weaving:

Definition: The process of interlacement of two sets of yarn named warp & weft by the means of weaving machine or loom to produce woven fabric is called weaving.

Machine Specification:

Lay out plan of Weaving Section:

Figure: Evacuation plan of loom shed 1, 2

Figure: Evacuation plan of loom shed 3,4

Figure: Loom Shed

Figure: Toyoda, JAT 600RS190

Figure: Toyoda, JAT 710 Eurotech

Chart for loom stops, production, RPM and efficiency in A shift for different looms (5) which are run by a operator:

Loom No 230:

Loom No 231:

Loom No 232:

Loom No 233:

Loom No 234:

Quality Management System:

Grey yarn test report:

Date: 25-06-2010

Count: 45/1, CVC

Lot no: 33/10

Total test: 4/2000 MTR

Overall results:

Tenacity (CN/Tex) =18.12

CV% of Tenacity =9.29

Elongation (%) =5.51

CV % of elongation =12.13

USTER TESTER:

(+140%)Neps

(+200%)Neps

(+400%)Hairiness

(-)Thin place(-30%)Thin place(-40%)Thin place(-50%)1/13336510322125123.86907122101/2269481027399123.7991711551/325047925810883.9178511941/42273522698743.867691128

Grey yarn test report:

Date: 10-06-10

Count: 40/1, cotton

Lot no: 08/10

Total test: 4/2000 MTR

Overall results:

Tenacity (CN/Tex) =19.61

CV% of Tenacity =7.77

Elongation (%) =6.04

CV % of elongation =6.92

USTER TESTER:

(+140%)Neps

(+200%)Neps

(+400%)Hairiness

(-)Thin place(-30%)Thin place(-40%)Thin place(-50%)1/11162361925334.083603101/220435840812344.09593390

Grey yarn test report:

Date: 06-02-10

Count: 20/1 card

Lot no: 08/10

Total test: 4/2000 MTR

Overall results:

Tenacity (CN/Tex) =18.17

CV% of Tenacity =6.80

Elongation (%) =5.51

CV % of elongation =7.59

USTER TESTER:

(+140%)Neps

(+200%)Neps

(+400%)Hairiness

(-)Thin place(-30%)Thin place(-40%)Thin place(-50%)1/12013653328272.803321301/220741738810453.264932901/31812453358863.223711401/41472663159903.13430271

Grey yarn test report:

Date: 16-03-10

Count: 30/1, card

Lot no: 20/10

Total test: 4/2000 MTR

Overall results:

Tenacity (CN/Tex) =17.22

CV% of Tenacity =8.21

Elongation (%) =4.53

CV % of elongation =9.26

USTER TESTER:

(+140%)Neps

(+200%)Neps

(+400%)Hairiness

(-)Thin place(-30%)Thin place(-40%)Thin place(-50%)1/14751031089121744.848507421/24157716851217144.748357121/343088976317135.228757911/4417891575218225.09820720

Grey yarn test report:

Date: 07-03-10

Count: 60/1 comb

Lot no: 6060c/10

Total test: 4/2000 MTR

Overall results:

Tenacity (CN/Tex) =26.72

CV% of Tenacity =8.23

Elongation (%) =4.47

CV % of elongation =8.89

USTER TESTER:

(+140%)Neps

(+200%)Neps

(+400%)Hairiness

(-)Thin place(-30%)Thin place(-40%)Thin place(-50%)1/1150812263512.8582610061/21511512213412.197749381/31321212484902.187949531/41591603036832.919471687

Quality assurance system

Quality assurance procedure may be divided into two major parts:

1. On line quality control.

2. Off line quality control.

On Line Quality Control:

On line quality control is done at different stages, such as :

Winding: Soft or hard package.

Warping: Color pattern, width of repeat, section repeat.

Sizing: pick up %, size paste quality check

Weaving: Dropper check, loose warp check, reed mark, wrong denting etc.

Off Line Quality Control:

Sample collection:

One meter sample of every order is collected by online inspector. Every sample is clearly identified with a sticker.

QC department checks the fabric in the loom and at that time the loom remains stops. He ensure the quality parameter such as free of hole or spot, reed mark, repeat size, width of fabric etc.

TEST PROCEDURE

Fabric weight (G.S.M):

The procedure for fabric weight test of finished fabric:

– M/C used: G.S.M. cutter.

-Frequency: Every order.

-Procedure: 3 samples pieces are cut with G.S.M. cutter. Find their average wt.

Gram per square meter (GSM) = Average wt*100

Ounce per square meter (oz/yd2)=G.S.M.*0.0296

-Performance STD: According to buyer’s given std.

-In case of non-conformity:

To increase G.S.M.: Reduce width mechanically.

To decrease G.S.M: Increase width mechanically

Width Test:

Machine used : Measuring tape.

Frequency : Every order & after every finishing process.

Procedure : Manual measurement by tape.

Overall width : Total width.

Useable width : Width without selvedge.

Pref. Std. : 150+2 cm or specified by the customer.

In case of non-conformity: Re-finish.

Tensile strength:

M/C used : Alphateus Tensile Tester.

Frequency : Every order.

Procedure : According to customers requirements.

In case of non-conformity: To increase tensile strength re-

Mercerize (increase of 5-10%) and re-finish.

Tear strength:

M/C used : Element Tearing Tester.

Manufacture : Messmer Instruments Ltd.

Frequency : Every order (only for 100% cotton light fabric).

Procedure : According to customers requirements.

In case of non-conformity: To increase tearing strength re-mercerize & re-finish.

Pilling Resistance:

M/C used : ICI Pilling box.

Manufacturer : James H. Heals.

Frequency : Whenever required.

Procedure : BS 5811(36000 rear) ASTM D 3512.

Performance std : Grade 4; Grade 3(For each fabric).

In case of non-conformity: Re-singeing followed by resin finish.

Fabric inspection:

It is the responsibility of both the textile supplier and garment manufacturer to inspect all textiles to ensure their compliance with the buyer standard. Textile which are being exported to another country for use in the assembly of a finished product are required to be inspected by the buyer’s designed inspection service prior to shipment. It is the sole responsibility of the textile supplier to ensure that the textiles are inspected prior to shipment. For textiles which are to be assembled in the country of textile origin, inspection is required only if requested by the buyer. Once requested it is the responsibility of the textile supplier to ensure that the textiles are inspected prior to shipment.

The fabric control service will be divided in the following subgroups:

A. Pre-control: “feel” examination, appearance, verification of any unpleasant odorous, colors, shades, weight, listing and ending; verification of dye uniformity between center and selvedge by means of a special fabric strip “sleeve” and dimensional checking by means of a steam test, production of the shade continuity cards.

B. Control: All textile inspections will be conducted in accordance with the 4 point system. The control consists in checking of fabrics on appropriate machines, permitting complete tension free sliding and measuring of the fabric.

The pieces will always be processed in rolls or humpback, never folded in order to avoid permanent creases in the fabric.

Tension free measuring will be carried out electronically with or without metric labeling on the selvedge and the accuracy will be guaranteed with a maximum approximation of 0.5%. Measuring will be expressed in yards.

References for pattern and finishing will be certified by a fabric swatch indicated by the Garment conductor, colors by colors chart/shade chart. This sample will be reference sample taken from the first delivery of the production or a sample taken from a sample piece. Sample dimensions will be such as to permit verification of all characteristics, pattern, colors, etc. of the fabric to be inspected.

TEXTILE SPECIFICATIONS AND EVALUATION

All textile inspections will be conducted in accordance with the Four Point System.

The Four Point System derives its name from the basic grading rules:

1. No more than four penalty points may be assigned for any single defect.

2. No more than four penalty points may be assigned to one linear yard, regardless of the number of defects within that one yard.

Penalty point evaluation

Defects in both the warp/weft direction will be assigned points using the following criteria:

1 point -Defects size not exceeding 3”

2 points -Defects size exceeding 3” but not exceeding 6”

3 points -Defects size exceeding 6” but not exceeding 9”

4 points -Defects size exceeding 9”

· A continuous defect running (9”) or longer shall be assigned four points for each yard in which it occurs within the shipment.

· For continuous defects such as side to side shading, side-center-side shading, end to end shading, off shade, no penalty points shall be assigned. However, the entire roll shall be graded as “Second Quality” whole lot cannot be shipped.

The following fabric penalty point grading standards are to be used when inspecting all textiles. The standards are intended to be comprehensive; rise to occasion, whenever a specific fabric condition is mot described. When this occurs, the shipment will be aborted if the inspection was failed, and the inspection service will contact the garment contractor/supplier for disposition.

Running Defect:

· Any defects found to repeat and/ or run in a continuous manner will constitute a running defect. Any running defect will be assigned four penalty points for each yard in which the defect occurs. For a roll containing more than five continuous yards per100 linear yards with running defects, the whole roll will be graded as second quality and cannot be shipped.

Full width defects:

· Any roll that contains more than six full width defects per 100 linear yards shall be graded as second quality and cannot be shipped.

· No roll will be accepted as an A grade roll which contains a full width defect in the first or last three yards. This roll will be graded as B grade.

· No roll will be accepted as first quality where baggy cloth occurs. A roll which exhibits a noticeable degree of looseness (waviness) or tightness along either or both selvedge or ripples, puckers, folds, creases in the body of the fabric and would prevent the fabric from lying flat when being spread in a conventional manner. This roll will be graded as second quality and cannot be shipped.

Holes And Dropped Stitches

· A hole consists of two or more broken yarns and is considered to be a defect. A hole or a dropped stitch, regardless of size will be penalized maximum of 4 points.

Roll length verification:

· Any roll of less than 30 yards in length shall be graded as second quality and cannot be shipped. The roll ticket length will be verified during the inspection

Points Calculation:

Textiles are evaluated on square yard consumption. The formula used to determine the point count level of a roll of fabric is as follows:

1. Individual piece: Points per linear yard ×36”×100 square yard

Cuttable width in inches ×inspected yard

=Points for 100 square yards

Total points per linear yard × 36”×100 sqr yard

2. Average Shipment piece:

Total inspected yards × average cuttable width

=Average points per 100 square yard per shipment

· The average point value per shipment should not exceed 20 points per 100 square yards and not contain any second quality / rejected roll.

· A grade acceptance- Individual roll within 25 points per 100 square yards.

· B grade acceptance- Individual roll within 26-30 points per 100 square yards.

· Second quality /Rejected-Individual roll with in 25points per 100 square yards.

· Maximum 20% of “B” grade fabric yards are allowed with in a shipment.

Maintenance

Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such a way that trouble free. Service and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality required by the customers is sustained.

On time maintenance increase m/c lifetime & ensures trouble free services.

MAINTENANCE OF MACHINERY:

Preventive Maintenance:

Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection / checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful description.

Break down maintenance:

In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it can not perform its normal functions.

Routine Maintenance:

Maintenance of different machines is prepared by expert engineer of maintenance department. Normally in case of dyeing m/c maintenance after 30 days complete checking of different important parts are done.

MAINTENANCE TOOLS & EQUIPMENTS:

1. Socket/ Spanner /Impact socket sets: Suitable for driving metric/AF, BSW,BSFand BA hexagonal nut/BOH.

2. Table / Drill vice: Ideal for small drilling task.

3. Screw driver: Ideal for service / repairing loss.

4. Circlip pliers: Opening & setting of circlip.

5. Pliers & cutters.

6. Centre punch: With knurnled grip & squire head with 60* gasket point . Used for well defined impression for cutting / drilling etc.

7. Pipe cutter : Used for steel conduct, copper brass or aluminium.

8. Nose pliers.

9. File set: Squire, half round, three square, round, flat.

10. Hammer: Ball point, soft faced etc.

11. Hexagon keys: Short age “L” shaped key, long arm “L” shaped.

12. Hole punch.

13. Hack-saw.

14. Adjustable wrench.

15. Single end spanner.

16. Riveters.

17. Puller.

18. Ranching ring.

19. Torque wrench.

20. Tri-squire.

21. Measuring tape.

22. Spirit level.

23. Thread gauge.

24. Deep gauge.

25. Wire gauge.

REMARKS:

Maintenance of machines is very essential to prolong the m/c life and good maintenance is important consideration.

In this industry maintenance program is done by expert maintenance team. So production is stopped due to m/c problem for a short time.

Utility Department

Generator:

Brand name : Watsila

Origin : France

System : PLC control

Capacity : 1 MW each

No of cylinder : 16

Generator type : Gas generator (1% gas: 11.5% air)

No of generator : 9

Overall efficiency : 80 %

Stand by diesel generator which capacity is 750 KW and also two gas turbine which production capacity is 9 MW used for other project in bex- tex ltd .

Maintenance:

# After 750 hours Lube oil is changed, and 40 grade oil is used for this purpose.

# Clean the spark plug after 2000 hour.

# Tappet clearance after 750 hour.

Oil category:

Company: Mobile

Name : Pagases 805

Compressor:

No. of compressor : 10

Type : Screw type rotary compressor

Oil free (6) ,oil injected (4)

Model : Atlas (oil free), Fini , ELGI .

Origin : Belgium (oil free), Italy (atlas), India

Capacity : 46.5 m³/min (6)

13.7m³/min (1)

. 9.6m³ /min (1)

6.4m³ /min (1)

14.7m³ / min (1) , total = 323.4 m³ / min

Pressure : 7.5 bar

Oil category : lube oil (mineral oil)

Speed : 1450 rpm

BOILER:

Type: Horizontal fire tube boiler

Manufacturer: Thermex

Origin: India

Fuel : Gas

Maximum pressure: 10 bar

Working pressure : 9 bar

Heating surface : 3315 square feet.

Chiller:

Brand name : Thermex