Industrial Training: International Classic Composite Limited

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“Industrial Training”: International Classic Composite Limited.

Company Profile:

Name of factory : International Classic Composite Limited

(ICCL)

Year of establishment : 2007

Investor : Mr. Milon Hossen & Mr. Khokon Ahmed

Location : Naojur, Kodda, Joydebpur, Gazipur,

Bangladeh.

Certification & awards : ISO 9001:2007

Production capacity : Knitting: 5 tons/day (Average)

Dyeing: 6.5 ton/day (Average)

Main Production : Knitwear& all kinds of knit garments &

Knit fabrics.

Website : www.icclbd.com (Processing)

History Of The Project Development

After successful operation in International Classic Composite Ltd., the owner had decided to start a fully information & technology based along with the social accountability and quality controlled modern ready made composite knit garments industry in large scale. In this connection Mr. Milon & Mr. Khokon had decided in a resolution to start a company in Naojur, Kodda, Joydebpur, and Gazipur in the year 2007 to manufacture knitwear garments for the international market. Right from inception the policy of the company has been to provide total customer satisfaction by offering quality knitwear in time. To meet the commitments of quality and prompt delivery, International Classic Composite Ltd. Decided to integrate the manufacturing process in a planned manner. Over the years the entire process has been integrated by importing sophisticated machinery from world-renowned manufacturers.

Working on new concepts in styling & content of the knitwear is a continuous activity in International Classic Composite Ltd. with an objective to up the quality and the value of merchandise. In 2007, the year in which International business was started; International Classic Composite Ltd. concentrated all its strengths and resources in developing a wide range of knitwear for the international market.

Vision & Mission Of This Project

The mission and vision of International Classic Composite Ltd. is to manufacture and deliver high quality readymade garments (RMG) to its customers. The core objective is to attain and enhance customer satisfaction by providing on time delivery of desired quality readymade garments and also to increase efficiency of workforce.

To attain these objectives, the management of International Classic Composite Ltd. has decided to adopt the following-

• To increase awareness regarding customers requirements throughout the organization.
• By providing training to develop efficiency of the employee.
• To collect customer’s feedback regularly to know about their conception about their company and to take timely appropriate action.
• To reduce the percentage of wastage / rejection minimum by 2% per annum’s implement and monitor ISO 9001:2007 quality management system within the organization.

Location Of International Classic Composite Ltd.:

SECTION-WISE MANPOWER

MANAGEMENT SYSTEM

1. Buyer sample is send to G.M or merchandising manager.
2. Marching is done under lab manager.
3. Sample is prepared by asst. dyeing manager.
4. Sample is send to the buyer for approval.
5. Approved sample is returned and taken as STD. sample for bulk production.
6. Dyeing manager gives responsibilities to asst. dyeing manager.
7. Then shift in charge with the supervisors start bulk production.
8. On line and off line quality check is done by lab in charge and asst. Dyeing manager.
9. After dyeing asst. manager (finishing) controls the finishing process with the supervision of shift in charge.
10. Finally G.M checks the result with dyeing manager and decision is taken for delivery.

Shift Change For Worker

1. A shift = 8.0 am to 8.0 pm

2. B shift = 8.0 pm to 8 am

3. But offices time 9.0 am to 5.0 pm

Responsibilities of A Shift In Charge

1. Over all supervision of production both dyeing and finishing.

2. Batch preparation and pH check.

3. Dyes and chemical requisition, issue and check.

4. Write fabric loading and loading time form machine.

5. Programmed making, sample checking, color matching.

6. Control the supervisors, operators, asst. operators and helpers of dyeing machine.

7. And also other work when it is required by top level management.

Job Description

Title: asst. production manager

Dept/section: dyeing and finishing

Report to: manager.

Job Summary

1. After having the work order, prepares production plan.

2. To execute and follow up the plan along with quality conformation.

3. To face various difficulties of production and overcome them.

4. Inspecting the material for conformation to buyer requirements.

Job Description

Title: shift in charge

Dept/section: asst. dyeing manager

Job Summary

1. To execute the plan given by asst. dyeing master.

2. Organizing personnel under him.

3. Control the supervisors, operators, asst. operators and helpers of dyeing machine.

4. Checking of shade match.

KNITTING SECTION

Raw Materials

Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital role in continuous production and for high quality fabric.

Types of Raw Materials:

1. Yarn

2. Fabric

3. Dye stuff

4. Chemical and auxiliaries

Raw Materials Sources:

Cotton Yarn:

1. Gulshan Spinning Mill.

2. Shirin Spinning Mill.

3. Sliver Spinning Mill.

4. Prime Spinning Mill.

Polyester Yarn: India

Lycra: Korea, Japan

Fabric:

1. 100 % Cotton fabric

2. CVC fabric

3. PC fabric

4. Lycra twill fabric

Knitting:

Knitting is the method of making fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a series of interloping loops, each row of such loops forms the one immediately preceding it.

Types of Knitting:

There are two types

1. Warp Knitting.

2. Weft Knitting.

1. Warp Knitting:

In warp knitting, one or two yarn produce vertical column of loops and fabric is produced at length way. In a warp structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different thread and the no of threads used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the number of loops in horizontal raw. In warp knitting, the threads run thoroughly in a vertical direction. e.g. – Net, Mesh fabric etc

2. Weft or Circular Knitting:

In weft knitting, one yarn produces a horizontal row of loops and fabric is produced at width way. In a weft knitted structure, a horizontal raw of loops can be made by using one thread and the thread runs in horizontal direction. e.g. – single jersey, rib, interlock etc

Single jersey:

It requires only one set of needles. The loops are intermesh in only one direction so the appearance of the face and back of the fabric are quite different.

Example: Plain single jersey, Pique, lacoste etc.

Rib:

It requires two sets of needles positioned at right angles to each other to form the fabric.

Example: (1×1) Rib, (2×2) Rib etc.

Interlock:

Fabric is produced by using both long and short needles. It has a smooth surface on both sides.

Example: Plain Interlock

Flow chart of knitting Section:

Yarn in cone form

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and Tension device.

Knitting

Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting

Inspection

Numbering

Sequence of yarn feeding:

Creel

Pipe line

Wheel

Yarn sensor

Yarn guide

Feeder

Needle

End products of Circular Knitting Machine:

Single Jersey M/C:

1. S/J Plain

2. Single Lacoste

3. Double Lacoste

4. Single pique

5. Double pique

6. Mini jacquard

7. Terry

Interlock M/C:

1. Interlock pique

2. Mash fabric

3. Face/Back rib

Rib M/C:

1. 1*1 Rib fabric

2. 2*2 Rib fabric

Terms of Knitting:

Course:

Horizontal row of loops produced by adjacent needles in knitting cycle is called the course of the fabric. A course is a predominantly horizontal raw of needle loops produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle called course. (Loop length * No of loop).

Wales:

Vertical column of loops produced by same needle in knitting cycle is called the Wales of the fabric.

A wale is a predominantly vertical column of intermeshed needle loops generally produced by the same needle knitting cycles. i.e. The number of vertical columns of loop of knitted fabrics is called wale.

Face loop:

If the legs of new loop is passes over the old loop is called face loop.

Back loop:

If the legs of new loop is passes under the old loop is called face loop

Stitch density:

The term stitch density is frequently used in knitting instead of a linear measurement of courses or Wales; it is the total number of needles loops in a square area measurement such as a square inch or three square centimeters.

It is expressed as,

Course per inch × Wales per inch.

Stitch length:

Length of one loop in the course direction express in mm.

Number of needle:

Machine diameter × Machine gauge × 3.1416.

GSM:

The weight of one square meter of fabric express in gram is known as GSM.

Needle gauge:

The needle gauge of a knitting machine is a measure expressed the no. of needle per unit of the needle bed or needle bar. As for example:

1. In case of circular weft knitting machine & Tricot warp knitting machine. [Gauge, N= Number of needle per inch.]

2. In case of Raschel warp knitting machine. [Gauge, N= Number of needle per two inch.]

Needle:

There are three types of needle-

1. Bearded needle

2. Compound needle

3. Latch needle-

· One butt needle.

· Two butt needle.

· Three butt needle.

· Four butt needle.

The most widely used needle is latch needle.

Cam:

Cam is called the specific path of the needles to produce a specific type of fabric.

There are three types of cam used in circular knitting machine:

1. Knit Cam.

2. Tuck Cam.

3. Miss Cam.

Knit Cam:

It moves the needle upward enough to clear the old loop and receive the new yarn.

Tuck Cam:

It moves the needle upward not enough to clear. The old loop but receive the new yarn.

Miss cam:

It does not move the needle upward. The needles neither clear the old loop nor receive the new yarn

Sinker:

It is a thin metal plate with an individual or collective operation approximately at right angles at the hook side between adjacent needles.

Working Sequence of Knitting Section for International Classic Composite Ltd.

Order sheet receiving From Merchandiser

Selecting of production parameter

Arranging of yarn

Testing of yarn

Arranging of selected m/c

Making a pre-production sample

Starting of bulk production after approval

Checking of grey fabric

Delivery of grey fabrics according to batch wise

Speciation of circular knitting m\c:

Flow chart of knitting Section:

Yarn in cone form

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and

Tension device

Knitting

Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting

Inspection

Numbering

Relation between G.S.M. & Yarn Count:

For cotton / Blend / CVC fabric:-

S/J without Lycra –

Rib without Lycra –

Interlock without Lycra –

Lacost (S/L, D/L) without Lycra-

40D Lycra Rib –

40D Lycra S/J –

Analysis of Fabric Design:

Sample analysis:

After receiving an order first step is analysis the fabric. A sample is analysis as per following system.

Fabric: Single jersey

NOTATION DIAGRAM

CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT

NEEDLE ARRANGMENT

1

2

N.B: 1 = One butt needle

´ = Knit stitch 2 = Two butt needle

? = Knit cam

Fabric: Single Lacoste

NOTATION DIAGRAM

CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT

NEEDLE ARRANGMENT

1

2

N.B: 1 = One butt needle

´ = Knit stitch 2 = Two butt needle

? = Knit cam

=Tuck cam

· = Tuck stitch

Fabric: Terry

NOTATION DIAGRAM

CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT

NEEDLE ARRANGMENT

1

2

3

NB: ´ = Knit stitch 1 = One butt needle

· = Tuck stitch 2 = Two butt needle

= Tuck cam 3 = Three butt needle

? = Knit cam ? = Miss stitch

= Miss cam

Fabric: 1 ´ 1 Rib

CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT

NEEDLE ARRANGMENT

N.B:

? = Knit cam

H =High butt needle

L = Low butt needle

1 = One butt needle

2 = Two butt needle

Raw materials for knitting:

Methods of increasing production:

By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased.

1. By increasing m/c speed:

Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased but it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this high speed.

2. By increasing the number of feeder:

If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.

3. By using m/c of higher gauge:

The more the m/c gauge, the more the production is. So by using m/c of higher gauge production can be increased.

4. By imposing other developments:

a) Using creel-feeding system.

b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage.

c) Using yarn feed control device.

d) Using auto lint removal.

Production calculation:

Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:

Production/shift in meter:

Fabric width in meter:

Faults &Remedies of knitting fabrics:

Knitting faults:

Faults in circular knitting production can be caused in various ways and quite a few of them cannot be related to just one cause. The following explanations are expected to be helpful in trying to locate the causes of these faults easier.

Reasons of fabric faults:

– yarn manufacturing faults

– fabric manufacturing faults

– Fabric processing faults –dyeing, printing, finishing faults.

Sources of fabric faults:

The sources of faults could be (in circular knitting m/c, 80% faults comes from yarn)

– Faults in yarn and the yarn package.

– Yarn feeding and yarn feed regulator.

– M/c setting and pattern defects

– M/c maintenance

– Climatic conditions in the knitting plant.

Fabric faults:

Knitted fabric faults are very different in nature and appearance and are often superimposed. The most common faults are:

– broken ends , holes or cracks

– drop stitch

– cloth fall out or pressed off stitches

– snagging or snags

– tuck or double loop or stitches

– Bunching up

– Vertical stripes

– Horizontal stripes

– Color fly or colored tinges

– Distorted stitches tinges

– Distorted stitches or deformed or titled loops

1. Holes:

Holes are the result of cracks or yarn breakages. During stitch formation the yarn had already broken in the region of the needle hook. Depending on the knitted structure, yarn count, m/c gauge and course density, the holes has different sizes. This size can therefore only be estimated if the comparable final appearance of a comparable fabric is known.

Possible causes:

• yarn parameters
• high yarn irregularity
• Incorrect yarn input tension setting; yarn running-in tension is too high.
• poorly lubricated yarns
• weak places in yarn, which break during stitch formation
• knots, slubs etc
• yarn is too high
• if the yarn is trapped between the cheek taper and closing latch

– Yarn damage

• tool small stitches

– Difficulty in casting off of the stitches

• Relation between cylinder and dial loop not correct yarn feeder badly set; defective knitting elements.

2. Drop stitches:

These are the result of a defective needle. They also occur when a yarn is not properly fed during stitch formation, i.e. not properly laid –in the needle hooks. These are the unlinked knitted loops.

Possible causes:

• inaccurate insertion of the yarn into the needle hooks;
• Broken needle hook.
• Due to high yarn twist and low fabric take down tension the knitted loop could fall out of the hook;
• Improper setting of the yarn feed angle i.e. badly set yarn feeder
• The yarn is not caught by the needle hook, example – lower yarn feeder and high yarn vibrations.
• Yarn feeder wrongly threaded in.

a. Dial loop length nit properly related to cylinder loop length; the loop jumps out of the needle hook.

b. Bad take –up.

c. Very dry material.

d. Insufficient yarn tension.

3. Cloth fall-out or pressed-off stitches:

It is an area consisting of drop stitches lying side by side. They can occur either when a yarn is laid-out or when it breaks without any immediate connection. Cloth fall-out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and removes the yarn out of the hooks of the following needles.

Possible causes:

· Yarn breaks before the yarn feeder.

· Yarn package winding faults, poor package build up.

· Fiber fly block the yarn guides, feeders etc.

4. Needle marks or vertical stripes:

Vertical stripes can be observed as longitudinal gaps in the fabric. The space between adjacent Wales is irregular and the closed appearance of the fabric is broken up in an unsightly manner. Vertical stripes and gaps in the fabric are often the result of a meager setting, i.e. the yarn count selected. Needles are bent, damaged, do not move uniformly smooth, come from different suppliers or are differently constructed.

Possible causes:

· Twisted or bent needle hooks.

· Stiff latches and needles.

· Incorrect closing of the hook by the latch.

· Heavily running needles.

· Damaged needle latch and needle hooks.

· Damaged dial and cylinder.

· Damages on other knitting elements.

5. Sinker Mark

Causes:

· When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes.

· If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.

Remedies:

Sinker should be changed.

6. Star Mark

Causes:

· Yarn tension variation during production.

· Buckling of the needle latch.

· Low G.S.M fabric production.

Remedies:

· Maintain same Yarn tension during production.

· Use good conditioned needles

7. Oil stain

Causes:

· When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.

Remedies:

· Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.

· Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.

8. Pin hole

Causes:

· Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.

Remedies:

· Change the needle

9. Bairre:

A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise) stripe(s).

Causes:

· This fault comes from yarn fault.

· If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.

· Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.

· During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.

· In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.

Remedies:

· We can use this fabric in white color.

10. Fly:

Causes:

· In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.

Remedies:

· Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.

· By cleaning the floor continuously.

· By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.

· Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.

11. Yarn contamination

Causes:

· If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,

· If lot, count mixing occurs.

Remedies:

· By avoiding lot, count mixing

Batch Section

Batching:

Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics that should be dyed and processed for a Particular lot of a Particular order.

Batch Management:

Primarily Batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing Manager. Some time Planning is adjusted according to m/c condition.

Batch process follow-up:

Grey fabric inspection

Batching

Fabric Turning

Storing for dyeing

Purpose of Batch Section:

To receive the grey fabrics roll from knitting section or other source.

1. To turn out the tubular fabric in its grey stage and to safe the face side of the fabric from any type of friction during the time of dyeing.
2. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria-

? Order sheet (Receive from buyer)

? Dyeing shade (Color or white, light or Dark)

? M/c available

? Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PC, CVC)

? Emergency

3. To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
4. To keep records for every previous dyeing.

Criteria of proper batching:

1. To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
2. To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
3. To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
4. To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

Dyeing Section

Dyes & Chemical Use:

Spectrophotometer:

Functions of spectrophotometer:

1. Color difference

2. Metamerism

3. Pass/fail operation

4. Fastness rating

5. Shade library

6. Cost comparison

7. Color match production

8. Reflectance curve.

Working Procedure:

All ingredients had been taken according to the recipe into the pot of sample dyeing machine. At a room temp the material had run then after 10 minutes started to rise the temperature at 1°C/ min. to get 60°C temperature. For performing the required dyeing temperature it took 30 minutes. The material had dyed at 60°C for 45 minutes. Then the temperature was reduced at room temperature within in 10 minutes. The fabric washed in cold water & then the material was washed in 1 gm/l soap solution (liquor ratio 1:20) at 90°C temperature for 15 minutes. Then after rapidly cold washing the material was dried & preserved.

And then check the shade match with the required sample by the lighting box.

Machine Description of Dyeing Lab:

1. Name : Sample Dyeing m/c

Brand : Data color

Origin : USA.

2. Name : Sample Dyeing m/c

Brand : Fong’s

Origin : Hong Kong

3. Name : Sample Dyeing m/c

Brand : Pyrotec-200

Origin : England

4. Name : Rubbing Fastness Tress

Brand : Crock meter

5. Name : Spectrophotometer

Brand : Data color

Model : 600 FX

6. Name : Light Source

Brand : Verivide

Raw material of Dyeing

Available Stock Solutions:

Red – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)

Yellow – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)

Blue – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common).

Preparation:

To prepare 0.1% Stock solution, it is necessary to mix 0.1 g dye and 100 cc water.

To prepare 0.5% Stock solution, 0.5 g dye stuff is mixed with 100 cc water.

To prepare 1.0% & 2.0% Stock solution similar procedure is followed.

To prepare 10% Stock solution of Soda ash, 10 g Soda is mixed with 100 cc water.

Calculation:

0.5%for deep shade.

0.1%for light shade.

ICC Ltd. produces 0.5% to 5% shade for the goods.

Amount of salt soda for Remazol

Usually following calculations are followed –

Recipe % ×Sample Weight

For (%)/ dye % = (cc).

Stock solution %

Recipe (G/L) × 100 × Total Volume of Liquor

(G/L) /Liquid / Auxiliaries = (cc)

(1000×Stock solution %)

Sample calculation for 0.5% shade:

Sample wt. = 5 mg, Let, Salt =25g, Soda Ash=10g

Material liquor ratio = 1: 10

Total liquor (5 10) = 50 cc

5 0.5%

Dye solution required = = 2.5 cc

1 %

25 50100

Salt solution required = ­­­­­­­­­­ = 6.25 cc (here, Stock %=20%)

1000 20

10 50 100

Soda ash solution required = ­­­­­­­­­­ = 2.5 cc (Stock %=20%)

1000 20

Water required = {50 – (2.5 + 6.25 + 2.5)} = 38.75 cc

Sequence of dyeing 100% cotton fabric in lab:

Select bleach fabric ( 5 gm)

Recipe making

Select dyes

Dyeing

Hot wash

Neutralization

Soaping

Cold wash

Drying

Match with