COLLEGE OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY

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COLLEGE OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY

OBJECTIVE OF INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT

Chapter One

Project Description

South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Limited

1. Name of the project : South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Limited

2. Project proponent : Golden Crown Enterprises International limited

3. Location : Dhaka Export Processing Zone (DEPZ)

4. Address : Plot No. 93-100, Dhaka Export Processing Zone

Savar, Dhaka, Bangladesh.

5. Board of directors : Mr.Ngan Hung Tak, President

Mr. M. Subid Ali, Group of Company Secretary

Mr. Calvin Ngan, Managing Director

Mr. Kort York Nam, Executive Director

6. Communication : The project is easily accessible by road.

7. Product name : Woven solid dyed (100% Cotton & Cotton/Lycra)

8. Product Mix : 100% Cotton & Cotton/Lycra fabric of Customized Construction

Such As:

· Twill

· Canvas

· Poplin

· Sheeting

· Ribstop

· Herringbone

· Dobby

· Broken Twill

· Slub

· Other Customized Structure Fabric

9. Annual production capacity: 96,000,000 Yds per year.

10. Factory area : 2.5 acre

11. Type of the factory : Horizontally integrated.

12. No. of employees : 1000

13. Project cost : Not Found

14. Different Departments

a) Administration

b) Human Resource and Development Department

c) Greige Fabric Inspection Department

d) Bleaching Department

e) Dyeing Department

f) Finishing Department

g) Brushing Department

h) Printing Department

i) Mechanical Department

j) Laboratory

k) Fabric Warehouse

l) Quality Assurance Department

m) ETP

n) Utility Department

o) Chemical Storage Department

Site Location:

South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Limited is situated in Dhaka Export Processing Zone two kilometer far from Nobinagar.

There are two easy way to go from Dhaka.

  1. Motijheel ? Satrasta ? Mohakhali ? Uttara? Abdullahpur? Ashulia ? Bipile ? DEPZ ? South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Limited

2. Motijheel ? Farmgate? Mirpur Road ? Gabtoli ? Savar ? Nobinagar ? Bipile ? DEPZ ? South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Limited

Figure: Schematic Diagram of route plan

History of the Project Development

South China Golden Crown Enterprises International Ltd., Hong Kong, an umbrella organization, has started its operation in the field of fabric processing in Dhaka Export Processing Zone (DEPZ), Bangladesh under incorporation in the name of South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. and has been meeting the growing demand of 100% Cotton & Cotton/Lycra fabric in Bangladesh readymade garment sector largely.

Physical infrastructure

Two storied building with Concrete structure (about 35 ft high)

Remark:

South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. is one of the largest woven dyeing mill in Bangladesh. The total environment of this factory is very good & friendly. The management of this factory tries to increase production day by day.

Chapter Two

Manpower Management

Organization Chart:

Man power in different section of South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd.

Total Manpower and Section wise manpower:

DepartmentManpower
1. Weaving102
2. Pretreatment68
3. Dyeing& Finishing112
4. Quality assurance87
5. Maintenance45
6. Utility51
7. Warehouse19
8. Administration36
Total520

1. Weaving

SectionManpower
1. Warping13
2. Sizing16
3. Drawing12
4. Knotting12
5. Loom49
Total102

2. Pretreatment:

SectionManpower
1. Singeing & Desizing15
2. Scouring & Bleaching33
3. Mercerizing20
Total68

3. Dyeing& Finishing:

SectionManpower
1. Solid Dyeing60
2. Finishing52
Total112

4. Quality assurance:

SectionManpower
1. Quality assurance17
2. Inspection/ Rolling38
3. Sample development15
4. Solid Dyeing lab.18
Total87

5. Maintenance:

SectionManpower
1. Mechanical24
2. Electrical & Electronics21
Total45

6. Utility:

SectionManpower
1. Boiler09
2. Pump house12
3. Utility maintenance15
4. Power distribution04
5. Power generator10
Total51

7. Warehouse:

SectionManpower
1. General warehouse04
2. Dye chemical sub-store04
3. Greige fabric store04
4. Delivery fabric store05
Total19

8. Administration:

SectionManpower
1. Admin & General service12
2. Marketing18
3. Accounting06
Total36

Shift change:

There are two shifts per day in South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. So each shift contain Twelve hour.

ShiftDuration
A08.00 AM – 08.00 PM
B08.00 PM – 08.00 AM
General shift08.00 AM – 05.00 PM

General shift is applicable for administration, human resource department & some officers.

Responsibilities of production officer

A production officer performs the following duties:

1. To monitor the production rate.

2. To check the machine setup.

3. To check the causes for stopping the machine.

4. To check the fault.

5. To report the concern people.

6. To eliminate the dyeing faults.

7. To maintain the optimum machine efficiency.

8. To control the lower concerned like supervisor, helper etc.

9. To take immediate steps when needed.

10. Overall supervision of dyeing & finishing production

Job Description

Production Officer

Department : Dyeing

Report to : Sr. Production officer

Job responsibility : To plan, Execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities

Sr. Production Officer

Department : Dyeing

Report to : Assistant manager (production)

Job responsibility : To plan, Execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities

Remarks

The organization and management system are good and the employees do their duty sincerely according to their job description which is very necessary for a good management system.

Chapter Three

Machine Description

Plant layout of

South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd

7 Here,

  1. Sanforizing Machine
  2. Calendering Machine
  3. Printing Machine
  4. Stanter Machine
  5. Scouring-Bleaching Machine
  6. Thermosol Dyeing Machine
  7. CPB Dyeing Machine
  8. Mercerising Machine

Number of machine in different department

DepartmentName of the machineNumber of machineTotal
Grey Inspection1. Grey fabric inspection machine44
Bleaching1. Sewing machine

2. Unrolling machine

3. Osthoff-Senge machine

4. Kuster machine

5. Mercerizing machine

7

4

1

1

2

15
Dyeing1. Thermasol dyeing machine

2. Cold pad batch

3. Sample dyeing machine

4. Washing machine

5. Sewing machine

2

2

2

2

6

14
Finishing1. Stenter machine

2. Sanforizing machine

3

2

5
Brushing1. LISA 4 Brushes

2. Peach Finish Machine

3. Double Acting Raising machine

2

1

1

4
Printing1. Screen Preparation machine

2. Screen Printing machine

3. Mercury Light Box

4. Curing Machine

1

1

1

1

4
Laboratory

(Sample Section)

1. Pad mangle

2. Finishing Pad mangle

3. Electric oven

4

2

1

7
DepartmentName of the machineNumber of machineTotal
Laboratory

(Sample Section)

1. Vatting machine

2. Pressure dryer

3. Washing machine

4. Dryer

2

1

1

2

6
Laboratory (Color matching section)1. Data color V.3.1

2. Light box

1

4

5
Laboratory

Laboratory

(Q.C Department)

18. Perspiration tester

19. Absorbency tester

20. Water repellency spray tester

21. Washing Machine

22. Water Extractor

1

1

1

6

1

Utility1. Generator

2. Boiler

5

8

13
Quality Assurance1. Delivery fabric inspection machine

2. Delivery fabric packing machine

15

1

16

(Q.C. Department)

1. Martindale abrasion tester

2. Elmatear digital tear tester

3. HONGDA YG381

4. ICI pilling tester

5. Tensile strength machine

6. Tear tester

7. Dry & Wet bulb hygrometer

8. Hygro thermograph

9. AATCC crock meter

10. Automatic crock meter

11. Fabric marker for shrinkage wash test

12. Wrinkle recovery replicas

13. Teflon test kit

14. Shirley crease recovery tester

15. Impulse sealer

16. Moisture Meter

17. Yarn Count tester

1

1

1

1

2

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

28

Description of machines in different department:

Grey Inspection

  1. Grey fabric inspection machine

Grey fabrics are inspected in this machine. Faults found in the fabric are estimated by 4 point system.

Fabric DefectPoint
1” – 3”1
3” -6”2
6” – 9”3
Excess 9”4

Some common defects are given below:

  1. Color Spot
  2. White Spot
  3. Crease mark
  4. Bug Spot
  5. Oil Spot
  6. Water mark
  7. Hole
  8. Yellow bar
  9. Broken End
  10. Broken pick

Bleaching Department

1. Sewing machine

a. Two sewing overlock

No. of machines are five

b. Five sewing overlock

No. of machines are two

Mainly used for piping & fabric for brushing.

2. Unrolling machine

No. of unrolling machines are four

Used for unrolling fabric from the bale.

3. Offshoot-Senge machine

Model : U97/3, No. – 6935

Origin : Made in Germany

Capacity : 5 batch

Machine speed in singeing: 92 m/min

No. of Burner : 2

No. of Box : 2(1 scouring +1 bleaching)

Drying system : Horizontal cylinder dryer, no. of cylinder 36, cylinder

Temp above 100c

4. Kuster machine

Name : Eduard kusters maschinefabrik GmBh & Co. Kg Krefeld

Origin : Made in Germany

Capacity : 8 batch

No. of box : 3 (2 scouring + 1 bleaching)

Drying system : Vertical cylinder dryer, no. of cylinder 36, cylinder temp above 100c

5. Mercerizing machine

No. of machine : 2

Machine speed : 46yds/min

Temperature : 65c

Dyeing department

1. Thermasol dyeing machine

Thermasol dyeing machine is used for dyeing with Vat dye. There are no specific documents about this machine. This machine is assembled by different parts by the processing department to fulfill the need.

2. Cold Pad Batch dyeing machine

Cold Pad Batch dyeing machine is used for dyeing fabric with Reactive dye. There are no specific documents about this machine. This machine is assembled by different parts by the processing department to fulfill the need.

Finishing Department

Brushing Department

1. LISA 4 Brushes

Model : LISA 4KW

Type : FT4W-05-1800-EP.A06

No. of brush roller : 4

Brush roller type : Nylon

2. Peach finish machine

Three types of peach is done here

· Light Peach

· Medium Peach

· Heavy Peach

Sand paper is used hear for peach finish. Sand paper count varies according to the type of peach. For light peach use 280, 320 count sand paper & for heavy peach use 60, 80 count sand paper.

There are two parameters in this machine-

· Pressure

· Fabric Speed

No. of sand paper roller: 13

3. Double Acting Raising Machine

Double acting raising machine has 29 rollers in one cylinder. Only raising is done in inner side or back side.

Name of manufacturer : FRANZ MULLER

Origin : Made in Germany

Finishing Machine:

1. Stenter

Stenter machine is a versatile machine & it used in various process in the finishing department. After dyeing, woven fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all woven fabric are dyed in open width form. There are lot of finish is done in this factory. Stenter is used for the following finis-

  1. White Finish
  2. Soft Finish
  3. Hard Finish
  4. Wrinkle Free
  5. Etc

Name : Kranz

Origin : Germany

No. of Gas Burner Chamber: 4

No. of Pre-Drying Cylinder: 7

Batcher Speed : 40m/min

Machine speed : 41m/min

Padder Pressure : 3 bar

Burner Temperature : 140 c

Burner Gas Pressure : 16bar

Colling Fan : 2

2. Sanforizing Machine

Sanforising is a mechanical treatment of fabric for shrinkage of soft fabric and transforming the fabric into soft glossy and smooth fabric for end use.

Equipment : Monforts Sanforising machine

Operation procedure:

  • After completion of check list the operator sets the feed site batcher and checks the shrinkage of the fabric by a special type of scale and the fabric is guided up to the damper. The fabric passes through the friction and heat of the rubber belt region and also through the felt calendar of the sanforizing m/c.
  • During the process the operator stops the m/c to check the shrinkage of the fabric at the neat end. If the shrinkage setting is all right then the bulk production continues and if there is any deviation in the shrinkage setting then setting pressure and pressure are adjusted.
  • For wrinkle free fabric the shrinkage is controlled by resin finishing.

3. Calendaring Machine

Calendering is a mechanical treatment of fabric for producing smooth crease free fabric.

Name of the machine : Monforts Calendering machine

Printing Department

1. Screen preparation machine

Name : STORK Screen preparation machine

Screen Width : 68inch

Chemical used : SCR 101 (Dicromate sensitizer)

Suprasol 007

2. Screen printing machine

Name : STORK mach.nr.A348.06.00

Type : Rotary screen printing machine

No. of printing head : 8

No. of drying chamber : 3

· Chamber 1 temperature range 140c

· Chamber 2 temperature range 150c

· Chamber 3 temperature range 140c

Machine speed : For single color 55 m/min

For multi color 45 m/min

3. Mercury Light Box

Mercury light is used for preparing screen.

Model : Not found

Type : Not found

4. Curing machine

Laboratory (sample section)

1. Pad Mangle

There are four padding mangle for dyeing in the sample section

Padder Pressure : 2.5 MPa

2. Finishing Pad Mangle

There are two Finishing padding mangle in the sample section

Padder Pressure : 2.5 MPa

3. Electric Oven

Model & Type : Not found

Drying Temperature: 55c

Time : For light color- 45min

For dark color- 60min

4. Vatting manhine

Used for vat dyeing in the purpose of reduction cleaning.

No. of machine : 2

Model : Not found

Time : 30 second

Temperature : 100-102c

5. Pressure Dryer

Model : Not found

Temperature : 145c

Time : 20 second

Pressure : 450-500 KPa

6. Washing machine

Used for dewatering from the sample fabric

Model : Not Found

Type : Top loading washing machine

7. Dryer

Type : Electric dryer

Temperature : 0-300c

Time : 30sec

Laboratory (color matching section)

1. Data color machine

Name : Data color v.3.1

Software Version : 3.1

2. Color Box

No. of color box : 4

¨ Visual assessment of color by reflectance & transmission

¨ Mainly used for shade matching

¨ Four types of light source are used

¨ Sometime it may be more such as TL84, CWD etc

¨ Metamerism of the fabric is checked

Types of light source which is used in the m/c is given below-

Symbol Full meaningFunctions
UVUltra violetUsed for white color matching
FFluorescent lightCheck the metamerism of the fabric
TL84Tube lightDo
L D65Artificial day lightUsed for color matching

Laboratory (Q.C. Department)

1. Martindale abrasion & pilling tester

Type : Abrasion & pilling tester

Origin : Made in Italy

Pressure : 9kPa for Abrasion

12kpa for pilling

2. Elmatear Digital Tear Tester

Manufacturer: Tames H. Heal

Origin : Made in England

3. Thread Evaluation Tester

Name : HONGDA YG381

4. ICI pilling tester

Manufacturer: SDL International Textile Testing Solutions

Type : Pilling Tester

5. Tensile Strength Machine

Name : H5KS

Manufacturer: Hounsfield

Type : Tensile Strength tester

6. Tear Tester

Name : Elmendorf Tearing Tester

Manufacturer: Thwing-Albert Instrument Co.

Origin : Made in USA

7. Dry & Wet Bulb Hygrometer

Type : Moisture Regain & Moisture Content Measure Instrument

Manually measure Moisture Regain & Moisture Content.

8. Hygro Thermograph

Name : SEKONIC ST-50

Type : Moisture Regain & Moisture Content Measure Instrument

Automatically measure Moisture Regain & Moisture Content.

9. AATCC Crockmeter

Manufacturer: Atlas Electric Devices Co. Chicago 60613

Origin : Made in USA

Type : Rubbing Fastness measure instrument

11. Automatic Crockmeter

Manufacturer: Redington Counters International

Origin : Made in USA

Type : Automatic rubbing fastness measure instrument

12. Fabric Marker for Shrinkage wash Test

Manufacturer: The Sanforized Company

13. Wrinkle Recovery Replicas

Method : Wrinkle recovery appearance method

14. Teflon Test Kit

Manufacturer: CIBA, DU PONT

Teflon Specification Test Kit

Type : Water Resistant measure instrument

15. Shirley Crease Recovery Tester

Method : Wrinkle Recovery Angle Method

16. Impulse Sealer

Type : PFS-400 Power 600W (Impulse)

17. Moisture Meter

To measure moisture in the fabric

18. Yarn Count Tester

19. Perspiration Tester

Perspiration fastness measure instrument

20. Absorbency Tester

Manufacturer: Sandlatee Corporation

21. Water Repellency Tester

Method : Spray Test

22. Washing Machine

Type : Top & Front loading Washing machine

Manufacturer: Made in China

23. Water Extractor

Remove water from the fabric.

Utilities Department:

1. Generator

Brand Name : GUASKOR

Power : 700KW

Voltage : 400V

Type : Gas Generator

Gas Pressure : 15 PSI

Air & Gas Ratio : 75:25

No. of Cylinder : 16

Cylinder Temperature: 500c (max.)

Lubricating Oil Pressure: 1 bar

General Parameter of Generator:

1. Oil System : 1500rpm

2. Ignition : Time setting for each cylinder

3. Gas system : Amount of gas per cylinder

4. Exhaust system : 7000 Cubic meter/min

5. Water Temperature : 93-95c

6. Load : 700 KW

7. Voltage (max & min) : 400V-380V

8. Frequency : 50Hz

9. Power Factor : -0.98

10. Battery Voltage : 26V

2. Boiler

Two types of boiler are available in South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Limited.

  • Steam Boiler
  • Oil Boiler

Steam Boiler:

Brand Name : CLEAVER BROOKS

Origin : Made in USA

No. of Boiler : 4

Capacity : 5, 10, 12.5, 15 Ton

Power : 350-600 HP

Brand Name : TIZAN

Origin : Made in Taiwan

Capacity : 15 Ton

Power : 958 Hp

No. of Boiler : 1

General Parameter:

Boiler Water PH : 9-11

TDS : 2500 (maximum)

Steam Pressure : 70-80 PSI

Maximum Steam Pressure : 150PSI

No. of Input Water Motor : 2

Temperature : 300F

Power Management:

  • 5 Ton Boiler used in Bleaching Department for Desizing & Scouring
  • 10 Ton Boiler is used for Bleaching Department
  • 12.5 Ton Boiler is used in Goldtex Ltd.(in Sizing) & Dyeing Department

3. Air Conditioner:

Name : Best Air Conditioner

Origin : China

No. of Supply fan : 2

No. of Return fan : 2

Dust collector motor: 2

Washer Pump : 1

4. Compressor:

Machine No.-1

Name : Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor Centac

Model : 20V35M*3

Serial No : C12093

Year : 2005

Country : USA

Capacity : 90 Nm3/m

Intake Pressure : 0.972 Bar/A

Discharge pressure : 7.005 Bar/G

Rated speed : 975 rpm

Intake temperature : 35 deg.c

Machine No.-2:

Name : Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor Centac

Model : 20V33M3

Serial No : M92-6612

Year : 1992

Country : USA

Capacity : 81 Nm3/m

Intake Pressure : 1.012 bar/A

Discharge pressure : 10.011 Bar/G

Rated speed : 572 rpm

Intake temperature : 35 deg.c

Machine No.-3

Name : Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor Centac

Model : 20V33M3

Serial No : M92-6612

Year : 1992

Country : USA

Capacity : 81 Nm3/m

Intake Pressure : 1.012 bar/A

Discharge pressure : 10.011 Bar/G

Rated speed : 572 rpm

Intake temperature : 35 deg.c

Remark:

The average machineries in this factory are more or less same compared to the other woven dyeing factories but the dyeing machineries are very much different from the other factories. Maximum number machines are modern & run with great efficiency.

Chapter Four

Raw Materials

Introduction

Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital role in case of continuous production & for high quality fabric. The South China Dyeing & Bleaching factory limited uses the best quality raw materials

Types of raw material

The basic raw materials used are:

  1. Fabric
  2. Dyestuff
  3. Chemicals & Auxiliaries

1. Fabric

Source:

  1. Goldtex Ltd. – 2 million yards per month
  2. Other local factory- 2 million yards per month

Product range:

100% Cotton & Cotton/Lycra Fabric of Customized Construction such as-

1. Twill

2. Canvus

3. Poplin

4. Sheeting

5. Ribstop

6. HerringBone

7. Dobby

8. Broken Twill

9. Slub

10. Other customized structure fabric

2. Dyestuff

Source : Hauntsman, Everlight, Dyestar, BASF

Product range : Reactive, Vat, Pigment, Disperse

3. Chemicals and Auxiliaries

Remarks

The South China Dyeing & Bleaching factory limited uses the best quality raw materials. It produces fabric from the best quality yarn. They use the best quality dyes as compare to price. Actually the prices vary with the market, availability. The procurement department does the purchase. The annual requirement of the chemical was not available.

Chapter Five

Production Planning, Sequences & Operations

Production planning

Production planning means planning of production. Planning demands a careful and exhaustive study which of co-ordinate and related activities which are necessarily performed by a host of different departmental groups.

Objects of production planning

The objects of production planning are:

  1. Determine the expected capacity of each work centre.
  2. Allocate a proportion of this capacity to each broad category of manufacture.
  3. Prepare sequential load statements for each major product.

Keep a record of the expected capacity of each work centre, by each manufacturing category for each production period.

A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is completed within the required time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable. “Planning” gives a scheduled task and ‘control’ completes it successfully. But production planning and control is not an easy task. So South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Limited has a self-sufficient and high-performance department called “Production Planning & Control”. Its Basic working procedure is as follows –

1. Taking orders from marketing division.

2. Analyzing the orders.

3. Planning for weaving the fabric.

4. Planning for dyeing the fabric.

5. Planning for finishing the fabric.

It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order. Sometimes, order is places only for finishing the material or only for dyeing the white goods. Then some steps are omitted for planning procedure.

1. Taking orders from marketing division:

SCBDFL marking division supplies Fabric Orders to the Planning and control division by a special format.

2. Analyzing the orders:

This section analyzes the orders according to buyers, Order Quantity, type of orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.), delivery date etc. Then it selects which M/C. to use, no of M/C. to use, time required for production etc. This section plans for required quantity of fabric to be produced (Order quantity + 6% of Order Quantity), weaving balance, fabric need to be dyed. Dyeing balance, RFD (Ready for delivery), RFD balance, delivered fabric and delivery balance.

3. Planning for weaving:

This section plans for weaving production. It selects machine for weave the fabric for specific type of fabric, type of yarn used, required GSM, width etc. It also gives delivery data for woven fabric. It also places orders for buying of yarn from spinning mills by a specific schedule.

4. Planning for dyeing the fabric:

Production planning for dyeing is called ‘Batch Plan’. According to the batch no. And color, width, style and construction the batch plan is made. For easy understand this section gives some ‘T.’ cards. ‘T’ cards are serialized according to the priority of delivery. The batches and ‘T’ cards also serialized as to dye light shade at first and lastly the dark shades, since faulty shades can be converted to dark color later.

5. Planning for finishing the fabric:

Finishing schedule is same us the dyeing. After dyeing the material goes to the finishing section with the batch plan. Finished data is written to the batch card and is informed to the planning section.

However, this section always enforces to all the departments to finish all the works within the delivery time given by the buyers. This section delivers materials by truck, micro, air etc to the customer within the meantime. Thus it plays a very important role in the success of the company.

Process Flow Chart:

Taking Order from Buyer

?

Lab Inspection & Processing

?

Weaving the desired fabric

?

Grey Inspection

?

Batch Preparation

?

Singeing

?

Desizing

?

Scouring

?

Bleaching

?

Mercerizing ? Physical Finishing

? ?

Dyeing ?

?

Finishing

?

Final Inspection

?

Delivery to Buyer

1. Taking Order from Buyers:

The first process of production is taking order from buyer. Different well known buyers work with South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Limited. Buyers give order of known construction or others. The lab departments process the order & give construction about the production process of the given order.

2. Lab Inspection & Processing:

In South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory, Lab plays an important role about the production. Lab examines the customer swatch & gives different properties of the given sample. In the lab fabric properties, color matching, fastness measurement and many other tests are taken place.

Sequence of operation in the lab:

Defining the color as buyer wanted

?

Recipe formulation by spectrophotometer/

From previous history

?

Lab dip preparation

?

Send to buyer for approval

?

Send the recipe of approved sample to Dyeing section

Recipe formulation:

Buyer can give fabric sample or color code or pantone number. So at first the colour is to identify if the buyer gives color code or pantone number. It is easier to formulate recipe by spectrophotometer from color code or pantone number because they are very specific. But if it is fabric sample then with the help of spectrophotometer several numbers of recipes are to formulate.

Sample dyeing:

With these recipes several numbers of samples are to be dyed.

Results send to buyer:

Now for every separate sample dyeing with separate recipe are send to buyer for approval. The buyer approves one sample and the recipe of that approved sample is now send to dyeing section.

3. Weaving the desired fabric:

South China Bleaching & Dyeing factory produce woven fabric from her sister concern woven factory Goldtex Limited & purchase woven fabric from reputed local factory. The capacity of South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Limited is 4000000 yds.

4. Grey Inspection:

To detect the woven fabric defects grey inspection is done in the factory:

Equipment used:

a) Inspection machine.

b) Inspection Table.

Machine Setup:

M/C set upParameter rangeSet value
Roller speed0-40 m/min25-30 m/min
lightNot applicableArtificial day light
Length measuring unitNot applicableAttached with m/c.

Four – Point System:

Size of defectPenalty
3 inches or less1 points
over 3 but not over 62 points
Over 6 but nor over 93 points
Over 9 inches4 points

Acceptance calculation:

Total point per 100 square yards

=

= Points/100 square yards.

Acceptance:

Generally any piece of fabric with 28 points or less faults per 100sq. yard is allowed to pass however for a roll; the average value should not exceed 18point per 100sq.yard. More than 28 points faults per 100sq yard is recorded as “REJECT”.

5. Batch Preparation:

Process sequence of Batch preparation receive batch card from Grey In-charge

¯

Make the priority as per dyeing plan

¯

Take one specific Batch card.

¯

Read the Batch Card for own understanding

¯

Check the availability of fabric

¯

Take required quantity of body fabric from ware-house.

¯

Stitch the fabric

¯

Write down the length against roll no. in the back side of the Batch Card.

¯

Write the total length in Batch Card.

¯

Put signature & date.

¯

Fill up the production report form.

6. Singeing:

Singeing is the process of burning of the fiber hairs projecting through the fabric surface. In a gas-singeing machine this burning is carried out by passing fabric against hot flames under specified conditions.

Objects:

  1. To obtain a uniform & smooth fabric surface by removing hairiness.
  2. To ensure uniform optical reflectance throughout the fabric surface in subsequent fabric wet process.

Equipment-used:

Machine :Kuster Gas Singing m/c.

Manufactures :Kuster manufacturing co.

Required Parameters:

a) Steam : Steam is supplied to the steam box of the machine.

b) Compressed air:The standard air supply pressure requirement is 4 kg/cm2.

c) Water : The standard water supply pressure requirement is 1-1.2 kg/cm2.

d) Natural gas: The standard gas supply pressure requirement is 3 kg/cm2.

Machine Setup:

Setup parametersRangeSet value
Speed(m/min)0-12055-60 for cotton.
Potentiometer Setting (rpm)0-15080-90 for cotton fabric
Burner in use1 or 22
Burner operation mode.Auto/ManualAuto
Flame height (cm)1-86 for white & light shade fabric.

6.5 for medium & dark shade fabric

Flame angle with the direction of fabric.450 to 900450 for blends

900 for cotton

Flame intensityLow/normal/

high

Low – not used

Medium – for white & light shade

High – for medium & dark shade fabric

Singeing Fault:

a) Singeing line :

Due to ununiform joint of bricks by cement, there become gaps between flames and thus singeing line is formed.

b) Uneven singeing :

One to uneven flame height uneven singeing is occurred.

7. Desizing:

Desizing is done for the removal of size ,material from the fabric. Desizing is done by the Enzyme. Enzyme degrades the starchy material & produce fabric ready for the next process. After desizing fabric role is kept for 4 hour in continuous rotating.

Machine Used:

  1. Kuster Machine
  2. Ossthoff Machine

8. Scouring:

Objects:

  1. To remove fats, wax, impurities from fabric.
  2. To increase absorbency of fabric.
  3. To remove natural nitrogenous coloring materials, dirt, dust, husk, broken seed, protein, leaf etc. by oxidizing on chemical treatment.
  4. To obtain pure & permanent white color.

9. Bleaching:

Bleaching is the process of removal of natural color from the fabric & to produce a pure, permanent white fabric. Bleaching is done with Hydrogen-per-oxide. Where H2O2 strength is 50%. Scouring & bleaching is done in the same continuous process but in different bath.

10. Mercerizing:

Mercerizing is a physio-chemical process in which cotton fabric is treated with concentrated solution of caustic alkali & subsequently stretched & washed under specified conditions.

Objects:

  1. To increase lusture of fabric.
  2. To increase the strength of fabric.
  3. To improve dimensional stability.
  4. To increase dye absorbency.

Equipment used: Dornier mercerizing m/c (Germany).

Required parameters:

ParametersValue
Squeeze pressure1.5-2 bar (by compressed air)
Temperature of washing800-900c
PH after mercerizing7-7.5
Caustic solution temperatureIn mixing tank : 80-900c

In caustic stroage tank : 70-800c

Function of machine parts:

a. Padder Pressure:

To squeeze and drive the fabric to a little extent otherwise there is a risk of forming edge line at two sides of fabric.

b. Water valves:

Supply water to washing tank.

c. Steam values:

Steam value supply steam to washing chamber.

Mercerizing process faults:

  1. PH variation
  2. Crease
  3. Water drop mark
  4. Spot
  5. Holes
  6. Distortion of dimensional stability

11. Physical Finishing:

Physical finish such as Micro sand, Micro suide, Raising is done in this factory.

12. Dyeing:

Mainly Reactive & Vat dyeing is done in South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory in CPB & Thermasol machine respectively.

Sequence of Reactive dyeing in CPB:

Fabric Pre-treatment

?

Lowering the temperature of the fabric by air cooling system

?

Dyeing the fabric by Padding Mangle

?

Batching the fabric role for 12 hours

?

Wash the fabric in both hot & cold water

?

Drying

Recipe for Reactive Dyeing in Cold Pad Batch

Job No. : 110-23192

Customer : Mondial

Construction : 133×100/40×40

Color : Grey Morn LRH8-08-34747104

Qty/yds : 440×5

Formulationg/lChemicals & Dyestuffs
541.20.615Nova Olive NC
191.840.218Nova Brown NC
167.20.19Nova Yellow NC
26403NF

Sequence of Vat dyeing in Thermasol:

Fabric Pre-Treatment

?

Dyeing the fabric in a Padding Mangle

?

Fabrics pass through a Infrared Dryer

?

Fabrics pass through Steam Chamber & curing Chamber

?

Chemical Bath for Vatting process

?

Steamer

?

Washing

?

Oxidizing

?

Washing

?

Drying

13. Printing:

Various kind of successful printing is done in South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory. Rotary screen printing is done by a rotary screen printing machine. There are lot of design collection is present in the printing section. Mainly Pigment printing is done here.

Name of the machine : STORK

Printing head/Capacity : 8

14. Finishing:

a. Stenter Machine:

After dyeing, woven fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all woven fabric are dyed in open width form. There are lot of finish is done in this factory. Stenter is used for the following finis-

  1. Pigment Dyeing
  2. White Finish
  3. Soft Finish
  4. Hard Finish
  5. Paper Touch
  6. Wrinkle Free Post cure
  7. Wrinkle Free Pre cure
  8. Teflon
  9. Water Repellent/Water Resist
  10. Etc

Other Finish is done in this section are as follows:-

b. Sanforizing

Sanforising is a mechanical treatment of fabric for shrinkage of soft fabric and transforming the fabric into soft glossy and smooth fabric for end use.

Equipment : Monforts Sanforising machine

Operation procedure:

  • After completion of check list the operator sets the feed site batcher and checks the shrinkage of the fabric by a special type of scale and the fabric is guided up to the damper. The fabric passes through the friction and heat of the rubber belt region and also through the felt calendar of the sanforising m/c.
  • During the process the operator stops the m/c to check the shrinkage of the fabric at the neat end. If the shrinkage setting is all right then the bulk production continues and if there is any deviation in the shrinkage setting then setting pressure and pressure are adjusted.
  • For wrinkle free fabric the shrinkage is controlled by resin finishing and then passed through the calendar region for getting the

c. Calendaring

Calendering is a mechanical treatment of fabric for producing smooth crease free fabric.

Name of the machine : Monforts Calendering machine

15. Final Inspection:

Inspection refers to an investigation process of accepting or rejecting the final finished fabric from the bulk. It is an observation process of finding. Out each and every visible fault in the fabric.

Responsibilities:

1. 100 Fabric Inspection

2. Joint Inspection with buyer.

3. Problem rectification.

4. Fabric transfer to store.

Equipment used:

a) Nazer Inspection m/c, Pakistan.

b) Verivide Day Light box.

Following faults are detected & identified in final inspection for body:

a) Penalty points legend:

H= Hole

OS = Oil stain

CS= Chemical stain.

W= Water spots.

Fy= Fly yarn.

YC = Yarn contamination.

WX= White speaks.

IS = Insect spots.

R= Rub mark.

DS= Dye stain.

D= Dirt stain.

b) Faulty appearance:

US = Uneven shade.

N = Neps

CR = Crease Mark

P = Patches.

HR= Hairy

MS= Machine stoppage.

N= Needle line.

BR= Barre mark.

CM= Crumple mark.

DC= Dead cotton.

BW= Skewing.

Beside these, role to role and meter to meter variation is checked.

Four – Points system:

Size of defectPenalty
3 inches on less1 point
over 3, but not over 62 point
Over 6, but not over 93 point
Over 9 inches4 point

Acceptance Calculation:

Total point per 100 square yards

=

= Points/100 square yards.

Some definition processing faults:

    1. Crease mark: Uneven heat control during process.
    2. Unevenness: If dyestuffs are not fixed with fabric uniformly causes this problem.
    3. Patches: This problem causes due to different color on some portion of fabric.
    4. Crumple mark: This problem is as like crease mark but looks meeting effect over PC fabric.
    5. Dye stain: Marks of color on fabric surface cause this problem.
    6. Dirty mark: This mark can appear any where in fabric.

g. Rub mark: Caused by friction with metallic component of m/c.

    1. Water sports: One to accumulation of water.
    2. Chemical stain: Stain caused by chemical during dyeing or finishing.

j. Rust strain: If m/c is affected by rust then rust stain appears on fabric.

Remark:

Process planning is very important for successful operation of a textile mill. South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. Maintain the process plan very strongly.

Chapter Six

Quality Assurance

Quality Policy:

It is the policy of South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Limited to produce quality dyed woven fabrics that meet or exceed customer’s expectations & needs. To implement this policy the top management of this factory is committed to provide adequate resources in terms of good raw materials and trained personnel & continually improve / upgrade its processes and systems.

Quality Objective:

  • Overall material/product loss (Level of rejection) for the company during the production process (in a year) shall not exceed 1.5 %
  • P