Niagara Textiles Ltd.
INTRODUCTION:-
Textile technology education is based on industrial ground. Theoretical background is not sufficient so, industrial training is an essential part of study to make a technologist technically sound in this field. Industrial training provides us that opportunity to gather practical knowledge.
Niagara Textiles Ltd is a truly integrated undertaking. The textile division has the capability to offer a complete product range for the export & domestic textile markets. The goal of the textile division is to become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics & clothing from Bangladesh. With high advanced technology & an emphasis on developing local human resources, the textile division has the potential to make an important contribution to the nation’s growing ready made garments export sector.
The rational behind the existing structure & future expansion of the textile division is to capture value added at each stage of the textile manufacturing process. Despite Bangladesh’s lack of indigenous cotton production capability, NTL has leveraged Bangladesh’s labor cost advantage & export competitiveness to maximum level.
GENERAL INFORMATION
·NAME OF FACTORY: Niagara Textiles Ltd. (NTL).
·OWNER OF THE MILL: Mr. Ahsan Habib, Chairman
Mr. Nurul Hasan Mukti, M.D.
Mr. Abu Baker Siddique, Director
Mr. Shahinur Islam Zinnah, Director
·LOCATION OF MILL: Chandra Circle, Union- Atabah, Kaliakoir, Gazipur.
·HEAD OFFICE: 27 Bijoy Nagar, Suite# C-1 (1st Floor), Dhaka-1000.
·COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION: 2001.
·BUSINESS LINE: Manufacturing & Marketing of high quality Knitted fabric.
·TOTAL PRODUCTION: 18 ton per day.
·VISION: Building a true marketing led enterprise with motivated workforce, innovative vision, and strong revenue based product portfolio, customer satisfaction & understand of global market.
·MISSION: Each of the activities must benefit & add value to the common wealth of our society. We firmly believe that, in the final analysis we are accountable to each of the constituents with whom we interact; namely our employees, our customers, our business associates, our fellow, citizens & our shareholders.
Company Profile:
Manpower:
Existing workforce: 4,500 employees (Approx.)
Member of:
Bangladesh Knitwear Manufactures & Exporters Association (BKMEA)
Industrial and Business Welfare Foundation (IBWF)
Bank details:
:: Islami Bank Bangladesh Ltd.
:: Shahjalal Islami Bank Ltd.
:: Bank Alfalah Limited
Product Type:
Textile division:
Single/ Double Jersey, Single/ Double Lacoste, Pique, Wafle, Fleece, Terry, Interlock, Interlock Pique, Pleated Jersey, Mesh Fabric, Rib etc. with or without Spandex.
Garments division:
All kinds of knitted tops and bottom.
Capacity:
Textile division: 20,000 Kg fabric / day
Garments division: 40,000 pcs/ day (based on basic items)
Area details:
Textile division
Knitting: 15,000 Sft
Dyeing: 40,000 Sft
Total: 55,000 Sft
Garments division
Cutting: 20,000 Sft
Sewing: 60,000 Sft
Finishing: 20,000 Sft
Sample room: 2,000 Sft
Office: 5,000 Sft
Store: 6,500 Sft
Total: 1,13,500 Sft
Bonded warehouse – 40,000 Sft
Grand Total: 2,08,500 Sft
Other developments/prospects:
Government & BKMEA award winner for the best compliant factory
NTL has awarded as one of the best compliant factory for fulfilling major compliance issues which was jointly organized by Labor Ministry of Bangladesh Govt. and BKMEA on 1st May, Labor Fair-2008. Furthermore NTL has also awarded by Naari Uddug Kendra (NUK) for fulfilling core standards on social compliance issues.
Fully Compliant with environmental ETP & other social welfare issues NTL is very much concern for hazard free environment and have constructed an Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) that is running and rectifying waste water. NTL is also concern about social welfare issues of its worker; NTL Social Welfare Officers regularly monitor these at floors.
Computerized Automated Management Information System (MIS) by ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) as part of automation, implemented in-house developed ERP database software for MIS (Management Information System).
In-house Printing Section: NTL has an in-house printing facility
Carrying facility by own covered van for timely shipment NTL has own covered vans for carrying products on time.
CAD/CAM (Computer Aided Design) Machine: NTL has an in-house CAD/CAM machine
NTL Present Clients:
· H&M
· Target
· Big Star
· New Look
· Loblaws
· Techibo
· Lazy Jacks
· Sears
· Okaidi
Location Map of the Factory
|
Chandra Circle
Kaliakoir Konabari
Zirani
Bazar
PRODUCT VARIATION
? Name of product mix :
The product, which are available in knit dyeing floor are given below:
? Single jersey / Single jersey with lycra. .
? Polo pique, Lacost ( Single / Double) .
? Rib – (1×1), (2×2), (8×2), (9×2), (9×1) .
? Lycra Rib, Drop needle fabric .
? Interlock.
? Grey mélange.
? Stripe (S/J, rib, interlock, grey mélange)
For cotton / Blend / CVC fabric:-
? S/J without Lycra –
| Fabric G.S.M | Yarn Count |
| 110 – 120 | 40 S – 36 S |
| 120 – 130 | 36 S – 32 S |
| 130 – 140 | 32 S – 28 S |
| 140 – 150 | 28 S |
| 150 – 160 | 26 S |
| 170 – 210 | 24 S |
? Rib without lycra –
| Fabric G.S.M | Yarn Count |
| 180 – 190 | 36 S – 32 S |
| 190 – 200 | 30 S |
| 200 – 215 | 28 S |
| 215 – 230 | 26 S |
| 230 – 250 | 24 S |
| 250 – 300 | 24 S |
? Interlock without lycra –
| Fabric G.S.M | Yarn Count |
| 200 – 220 | 34 S |
| 220 – 230 | 32 S |
| 230 – 250 | 30 S |
| 250 – 300 | 26 S |
? Lacost (S/L, D/L) without lycra –
| Fabric G.S.M | Yarn Count |
| 180 – 190 | 30 S |
| 190 – 210 | 28 S |
| 210 – 230 | 26 S |
| 230 – 250 | 26 S |
? 40D Lycra Rib –
| Fabric G.S.M | Yarn Count |
| 230 – 240 | 32 S |
| 240 – 250 | 30 S |
| 250 – 280 | 26 S |
| 280 – 300 | 24 S |
? 40D Lycra S/J –
| Fabric G.S.M | Yarn Count |
| 180 – 190 | 34 S |
| 190 – 210 | 32 S |
| 210 – 220 | 30 S |
| 220 – 240 | 28 S |
| 240 – 250 | 26 S |
KNITTING
Process flow chart of knitting:
Yarn in cone form
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and
tension devices
Knitting
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
Inspection
Numbering
Raw materials for knitting:
| Type of yarn | Count |
| Cotton | 20S ,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 36S ,40S, 45S |
| Polyester | 70D, 100D,150D |
| Spandex yarn | 20D,40D, 70D |
| Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) | 24S, 26S |
| Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) | 24S, 26S, 28S |
| Cotton Mélange (100%) | 24S, 26S, 28S |
| PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) | 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S |
| CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) | 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S |
Source of yarn for knitting:
- Sinha rotor Spinning Ltd.
- Arif textile
- HK Spinning
- Padma Textile
- Prime Textile
- Kader Synthetic
- Shohagpur Textile
- Jamuna Spinning
- Shamim Spinning
- Amber Textile
- Yasmeen spinning
- Square Textile
Lycra :
CREORA
Made in Korea
Type # H-100 (20D)
This fiber contains less than 1% di-methylacetamide( DMAC) which can be released during processing.
FABRIC TYPES:
1) Single Jersey
a) Single jersey (Plain)
b) Single lacoste
c) Double lacoste
d) Polo pique
e) Fleece fabric
2) Double jersey
a) Rib fabric
i) 1×1 Rib
ii) 2×1 Rib
iii) 2×2 Rib
iv) Lycra Rib
v) Flat Back Rib
b) Interlock Fabric
i) Plain interlock
ii) Drop needle interlock
3) Back Brush.
4) Collar and Cuff
i) Plain Collar or Solid collar
ii) Shaving Collar.
iii) Jacquard Collar.
iv) Tipping Collar.
v) Race Collar.
vi) Stripe Collar.
5) Different decorative single and double jersey fabric.
PRODUCTION PLANNING AND OPERATIONS OF KNITTING DIVISION
PROCESS DEFINITION:
Knitting is the interlocking of one or more yarns through a series of loops. The length wise columns of stitches, corresponding to the warp in woven cloth, are called WALES; the cross wise rows of stitches, corresponding to the filling in woven cloth, are called COURSES, FILLING KNITS (WEFT KNITS) are those fabrics in which the courses are composed of a single strand of yarn, while warp knits are those in which the Wales are composed of single strand of yarn. GAUGE corresponds to the yarn in a woven fabric, and is defined as the number of needles of yarns in half inches of cloth. The higher the gauge, the more compact and finer is the cloth.
DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PROCESS:
In every mill, there maintains a sequences in production processing. It is also followed in this mill where we were in industrial attachment. The process sequences are in list below:
1) Firstly, knitting manager gets a production shit from the merchandiser as accordance as consumer requirements then he informs or orders production officer about it.
2) Production officer informs technical in charge and knows about machine in which the production will be running.
3) Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take decision about machine for production considering machine condition, production capacity, maintenance complexity, etc.
4) Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch length and grey GSM for required final GSM.
5) Supervisor checks daily production regularity and make operator conscious about finishing tin due time.
6) Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. If he thinks or sure about any fabric fault, then he calls for the mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in charge. Then he comes in spot.
7) After required production and final inspection in 4-point system, they sent in dyeing section.
PROCESS REQUIREMENTS:
We have already discussed there are basically three kinds of machine which is used to produce knit fabric and these are:
1. Circular knitting machine (Single Jersey Machines).
2. Circular knitting machine (Double Jersey Machines).
3. Flat knitting machine.
PRODUCTION PARAMETERS:
1. Machine Diameter;
2. Machine rpm (revolution per minute);
3. No. of feeds or feeders in use;
4. Machine Gauge;
5. Count of yarn;
6. Required time (M/C running time);
7. Machine running efficiency.
CONSIDERABLE POINTS TO PRODUCE KNIT FABRICS:
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follows-
– Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
– Finished G.S.M.
– Yarn count
– Types of yarn (combed or carded)
– Diameter of the fabric.
– Stitch length
– Color depth.
G.S.M.
It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter.
Point considered while setting grey GSM:
– Enzyme level
– Color
– Suided or non- suided
Changing of GSM:
· Major control by VDQ pulley.
· Minor control by stitch length adjustment.
· Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves towards the positive directive then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase.
FACTORS THAT SHOULD BE CHANGED IN CASE OF FABRIC DESIGN ON QUALITY CHANGE:
a) Cam setting
b) Set of needle
c) Size of loop shape
EFFECT OF STITCH LENGTH ON COLOR DEPTH:
If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller.
METHODS OF INCREASING PRODUCTION:
By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased –
1. By increasing m/c speed:
Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased. But it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this high speed.
2. By increasing the number of feeder:
If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
3. By using machine of higher gauge:
The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher gauge production can be increased.
4. By imposing automation in the m/c:
a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system.
b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation.
c) Photo electric fabric fault detector.
5. By imposing other developments:
a) Using creel-feeding system.
b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage.
c) Using yarn feed control device.
.Production calculation:
1. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:
2. Production/shift in meter:
3. Fabric width in meter:
QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM OF KNITTING DIVISION:
INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM:
After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly by the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing. Quality assurance of knitted grey fabric is described here.
SOME POINTS ARE NEEDED TO MAINTAIN FOR HIGH QUALITY FABRIC:
1) Brought good quality yarn.
2) Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.
3) G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately.
4) Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month.
5) Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system.
LIST OF EQUIPMENT FOR QUALITY CONTROL:
The list of equipments to assure quality:-
1) Inspection m/c.
2) Electronic balance
3) GSM cutter.
4) Measuring tape.
5) Scissors.
6) Indication sticker.
QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURE:
Body & rib inspection:
All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubs etc are recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four point system.
Collar & cuff inspection:
Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the light box, any major or minor fault in collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round problem etc properly counted and recorded.
QUALITY STANDARD:
SKL maintains the ISO: 9001:2000 standards in case of quality. Therefore, the four point system is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points given against are recorded in the inspection sheet. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by inspection at SKL
| Four point grading system | |
| Size of defects | Penalty |
| 3 inches or less | 1 point |
| Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch | 2 point |
| Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch | 3 point |
| Over 9 inch | 4 point |
Relationship between knitting parameter:
1. Stitch length increase with the increase of GSM.
2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and WPI decrease.
3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease.
4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase.
5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and WPI increase.
6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
7. Grey GSM should be less than finish GSM.
Faults and their causes in knitting:
Hole mark:
Causes:
Þ Buckling of the needle latch
Þ Buckling the sinker
Þ Higher G.S.M
Star mark:
Causes:
Þ Buckling of the needle latch.
Þ Yarn tension variation during production.
Þ Low G.S.M.
Oil spot/Grease spot:
Causes:
Þ Excess oil/Grease use.
Þ Jamming of needle & sinker.
Patta:
Causes:
Þ Yarn comes from different lot.
Þ Faulty cam use in the m/c.
Needle mark:
Causes:
Þ Faulty needle use in the m/c.
Sinker mark:
Causes:
Þ Faulty sinker use in the m/c
Fabric Shrinkage:
Causes:
Þ Yarn twist. Twist Shrinkage
Þ Knitting tension.
Þ Fabric G.S.M. ` G.S.M. Shrinkage
GREY FABRIC INSPECTION
KNITTED FABRIC INSPECTION AND GRADING
BASED ON THE FORTY POINTS SYSTEM
The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of Quality Control in the grey or finished state, the grading of fabric is a difficult task, taking two primary considerations: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects.
The grading has two primary functions: First, to classify the fabrics according to standard qualities based on the end-use and costumer demands and second, to supply information as to the qualities actually being produced.
The Knitted fabric can be classified into three levels of quality, each one have a number of points for defects as follows.
The First quality level 40 points per 100 Linear Yards.
The Second quality level (40 – 80) points per 100 Linear Yards.
The Third quality level 80 points or more per 100 Linear Yards.
General Instructions for the final inspections: –
1- All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 Linear yards Mapping will be done on each piece to insure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per one yard.
2- All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account of points made to insure proper grading.
3- All fabric must meet specifications.
4- At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and decide whether the piece can be shipped as first quality or not, reworked, placed in lower quality, or cut and upgraded for shipment. Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as first quality.
5- The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and check the lower quality.
6- Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll or piece will be cut. All defects of one yard length or more will be cut out of the piece. Defects within the first 2 inches or the last 2 inches of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading.
7- Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to be included in the grading of fabric.
8- Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade.
9- All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out.
10- Fabric up to 70 inches will be allowed a bow of not more than 1 inch and a Bias of not more than 2 inches.
11- Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on tubular fabrics. All defects will be counted in tubular goods.
Grading procedure: –
- All open defects or major defects counted with 4 points per defect.
- Surface defects over 9 inch length counted with 4 points per defect.
- Surface defects 6 to 9 inches length counted with 3 points per defect.
- Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with 2 points per defect.
- Surface defects up to 3 inches length counted with one point per defect.
- Running defects, such as tucks, needle lines, barre, crack marks, are judgment defects
Function or purpose of batch section:
– To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
– To perform the grey inspection.
– Turn the grey fabric if require.
– To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria –
· Order sheet (Received from buyer)
· Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
· M/C capacity
· M/C available
· Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PET, PC, CVC)
· Other
– To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
– To keep records for every fabrics before dyeing.
Proper batching criteria:
– To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
– To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
– To keep the no of batch as less as possible for same shade.
– To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.
Batch management:
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.
M/Cs in batch section:
M/c no : 01
Machine Name : Turning m/c
Origin : Local
Capacity : 10 ton to 16 ton per day
DYEING
Sequence of operations for each product:-
For Cotton Knitted fabric –
Fabric receiving
Fabric inspection
Batching
Scouring & Bleaching
Dyeing
After treatment & Softening
Fixing
Dewatering/ Squeezing
Drying
Compacting
Final Inspection
Machine Description for Dyeing Section:
M/c No: 01
Brand Name : PMM (AtmosPheric Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 200 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 02
Max. Operating Temperature : 980 C
Manufacturing Year : 2001
M/c No: 02
Brand Name : PMM (AtmosPheric Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 300 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 03
Max. Operating Temperature : 980 C
Manufacturing Year : 2001
M/c No: 03
Brand Name : PMM (AtmosPheric Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 400 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 04
Max. Operating Temperature : 980 C
Manufacturing Year : 2001
M/c No: 04
Brand Name : PMM (AtmosPheric Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 600 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 06
Max. Operating Temperature : 980 C
Manufacturing Year : 2001
M/c No: 05
Brand Name : PMM (AtmosPheric Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 700 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 08
Max. Operating Temperature : 980 C
Manufacturing Year : 2002
M/c No: 06
Brand Name : ACME (High Temperature Winch)
Origin : Taiwan
Capacity : 600 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 02
Max. Operating Temperature : 1350 C
Manufacturing Year : 2005
Dyeing M/c No: 07
Brand Name : PMM (AtmosPheric Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 750 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 05
Max. Operating Temperature : 980C
Manufacturing Year : 2005
Dyeing M/c No: 08
Brand Name : PMM (High Temperature Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 300 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 02
Max. Operating Temperature : 1350 C
Manufacturing Year : 2003
Dyeing M/c No: 09
Brand Name : PMM (AtmosPheric Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 100 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 01
Max. Operating Temperature : 980 C
Manufacturing Year : 2005
Dyeing M/c No: 10
Brand Name : Dilmenler(High Temperature Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 150 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 01
Max. Operating Temperature : 1350 C
Max. Operating Presser : .2.5 Bar
Manufacturing Year : 2005
Dyeing M/c No: 11
Brand Name : Dilmenler(High Temperature Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 300 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 01
Max. Operating Temperature : 1350 C
Max. Operating Presser : 2.5 Bar
Manufacturing Year : 2005
Dyeing M/c No: 12
Brand Name : Dilmenler (High Temperature Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 450 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 02
Max. Operating Temperature : 1350 C
Max. Operating Presser : .2.5 Bar
Manufacturing Year : 2005
Dyeing M/c No: 13
Brand Name : ACME (High Temperature Winch)
Origin : Taiwan
Capacity : 1200 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 04
Max. Operating Temperature : 1350 C
Manufacturing Year : 2006
Dyeing M/c No: 14
Brand Name : ACME (High Temperature Winch)
Origin : Taiwan
Capacity : 1500 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 05
Max. Operating Temperature : 1350 C
Manufacturing Year : 2006
Dyeing M/c No: 15
Brand Name : ACME (High Temperature Winch)
Origin : Taiwan
Capacity : 1200 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 04
Max. Operating Temperature : 1350 C
Manufacturing Year : 2008
Dyeing M/c No: 01(sample)
Brand Name : PMM (Atmospheric Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 25 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 01
Max. Operating Temperature : 980 C
Manufacturing Year : 2001
Dyeing M/c No: 02(sample)
Brand Name : PMM (Atmospheric Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 25 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 01
Max. Operating Temperature : 980 C
Manufacturing Year : 2002
Dyeing M/c No: 03(sample)
Brand Name : PMM (Atmospheric Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 25 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 01
Max. Operating Temperature : 980 C
Manufacturing Year : 2005
Dyeing M/c No: 04(sample)
Brand Name : ACME(High Temperature Winch)
Origin : Taiwan
Capacity : 50 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 01
Max. Operating Temperature : 1350 C
Manufacturing Year : 2005
Dyeing M/c No: 05(sample)
Brand Name : PMM(High Temperature Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 25 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 01
Max. Operating Temperature : 1350 C
Manufacturing Year : 2005
Dyeing M/c No: 06(sample)
Brand Name : Dilmenler (High Temperature Winch)
Origin : Turkey
Capacity : 50 Kg
No. of Nozzle : 01
Max. Operating Temperature : 1350 C
Manufacturing Year : 2005
Raw materials for dyeing:
Raw materials used in the dyeing section are:
1. Grey fabrics
2. Dyes
3. Chemicals.
Grey fabrics:
Following types of gray fabrics are dyed:
- Single jersey
- Single jersey with lycra
- Polo pique
- Single laquest
- Fleece
- Interlock
- Interlock with lycra
- Rib
- Rib with lycra
- Different types of collar & cuff
Dyes:
| No | Dyes name | Type | Source | Origin |
| 1 | Kemifix Red XF-3B | Reactive Dye | N/A | India |
| 2 | Kemifix Yellow XF-RL | Reactive Dye | N/A | India |
| 3 | Kemifix Red XF-6B | Reactive Dye | N/A | India |
| 4 | Kemifix Yellow XF-4G | Reactive Dye | N/A | India |
| 5 | Kemifix Blue XF-2R | Reactive Dye | N/A | India |
| 6 | Kemifix Orange XF-2RL | Reactive Dye | N/A | India |
| 7 | Kemifix BLACK GR | Reactive Dye | India | |
| 8 | Kemifix TURQ. Blue-G | Reactive Dye | India | |
| 9 | Remazol Yellow RR | Reactive Dye | Dyestar | Germany |
| 10 | Remazol Red RR | Reactive Dye | Dyestar | Germany |
| 11 | Remazol Blue RR | Reactive Dye | Dyestar | Germany |
| 12 | Remazol Br Blue RR (SPL) | Reactive Dye | Dyestar | Germany |
| 13 | Remazol Blue RGB | Reactive Dye | Dyestar | Germany |
| 14 | Remazol T/Blue G | Reactive Dye | Dyestar | Germany |
| 15 | Remazol Navy RGB | Reactive Dye | Dyestar | Germany |
| 16 | Remazol Red 3BS | Reactive Dye | Dyestar | Germany |
| 17 | Drimarin Yellow CL-2R | Reactive Dye | Clariant | |
| 18 | Drimarin Red HF2B | Reactive Dye | Clariant | |
| 19 | Drimrin Blue CL-2RL | Reactive Dye | Clariant | |
| 20 | Drimarin Navy CL-GN | Reactive Dye | Clariant | |
| 21 | Drimarin Red CL5B | Reactive Dye | Clariant | |
| 22 | Drimarin Navy CLBN | Reactive Dye | Clariant | |
| 23 | Drimarin Orange CL3R | Reactive Dye | Clariant | |
| 24 | Drimarin Yellow CL3GL | Reactive Dye | Clariant | |
| 25 | Drima. Turquis Blue CLB | Reactive Dye | Clariant |
| 26 | Drima. Turquis Blue K2B | Reactive Dye | Clariant | |
| 27 | Imcozin Black VB | Reactive Dye | Impo color | Germany |
| 28 | Imcozin Red 3BF | Reactive Dye | Impo color | Germany |
| 29 | Imcozin Yellow E3R | Reactive Dye | Impo color | Germany |
| 30 | Imcozin Blue V3R | Reactive Dye | Impo color | Germany |
| 31 | Imcozin T. Blue VG | Reactive Dye | Impo color | Germany |
| 32 | Imcozin Br. Orange V3R | Reactive Dye | Impo color | Germany |
| 33 | Ciba Yellow FN2R | Reactive Dye | Swiss Color | Switzerland |
| 34 | Ciba Red FB | Reactive Dye | Swiss Color | Switzerland |
| 35 | Ciba Blue FNR | Reactive Dye | Swiss Color | Switzerland |
| 36 | Ciba Navy Blue NFB | Reactive Dye | Swiss Color | Switzerland |
| 37 | Ciba Red FN3F | Reactive Dye | Swiss Color | Switzerland |
| 38 | Ciba Yellow F4G | Reactive Dye | Swiss Color | Switzerland |
| 39 | Levafix Blue CA | Reactive Dye | Dyestar | Germany |
| 40 | Levafix Rubine CA | Reactive Dye | Dyestar | Germany |
| 41 | Levafix Amber CA | Reactive Dye | Dyestar | Germany |
| 42 | Terasil Yellow W4G | Disperse | Swiss Color | Switzerland |
| 43 | Terasil G. Yellow W3R | Disperse | Swiss Color | Switzerland |
| 44 | Terasil Navy WRS | Disperse | Swiss Color | Switzerland |
| 45 | Terasil Red W4BS | Disperse | Swiss Color | Switzerland |
| 46 | Terasil Blue WBLS | Disperse | Swiss Color | Switzerland |
| 47 | Terasil Black WNS | Disperse | Swiss Color | Switzerland |
| 48 | Terasil Black BFE | Disperse | Swiss Color | Switzerland |
| 49 | Taicon Yellow HW-T | Disperse | ||
| 50 | Taicon Brown XF-T | Disperse | ||
| 51 | Taicon Crimson XF-T | Disperse | ||
| 52 | Taicon Red XF-T | Disperse | ||
| 53 | Taicon Navy Blue HWT | Disperse |
Dyeing Parameter:
A. PH Check during Wet Processing:
– Bleaching bath Ph : 10.5 – 11
– Neutralization / After bleaching Ph : 5.5 – 6.5
– Initial dye bath Ph: 5.5 – 6.5
– After salt addition Ph : 6.5 – 7.5
– After alkali addition Ph: 10.5 – 11.2
– After dyeing Ph: 5.0 – 6.0
– Fixation bath Ph: 4.5 – 5.5
– Softener bath Ph: 4.0 -5.0 ( for color)
: 5.5 – 6.0 (for white)
B. Fixation Time:
– For light shade : 30 – 40 min
– For medium shade : 45 – 50 min
– For deep shade : 50 – 60 min
C. M: L ratio : 1:6 – 1:9
D. The amount of Glaubers’ salt and Soda ash on the basic shade percentage:
| Shade % | Glaubers’ salt | Soda ash |
| 0.0010 – 0.2 | 20 g/l | 5 g/l |
| 0.2 – 1 | 40 | 10 |
| 1 – 2.5 | 60 | 15 |
| 2.5 – 4 | 70 | 20 |
| 4 – 8 | 80 | 20 |
| Above 8 | 100 | 20 |
For some specific color:
| NameMixed alkali | Red ? 4% | Navy ? 4% | Black ? 4% |
| Glauber’s salt (g/l) | 80 | 80 | 100 |
| Soda ash | 5 | 5 | 5 |
| Caustic soda | 1 | 1 | 1 |
E. Fixation is done for medium and deep shade
F. Reduction clearing is done for medium and deep shade in case of PET/CO dyeing.
Common faults in knit dyeing
Fabric faults creating during dyeing:
- Crack, rope & crease marks:
- Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- Incorrect process procedure
- Higher fabric speed
- Causes:
· Remedies:
· Pre-Heat setting
· Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
· Reducing the m/c load
· Higher liquor ratio
· Running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure
- Fabric distortion and increase in width:
· Causes:
- Too high material speed
- Low liquor ratio
· Remedies:
· By decreasing both nozzle pressure & winch speed
o Pilling:
· Causes:
· Too high mechanical stress on the surface of the fabric
· Excess speed during processing
· Excess foam formation in the dye bath
· Remedies:
· By using of a suitable chemical lubricant
· By using antifoaming agent
· By turn reversing the Fabric before dyeing
o Running problem:
a. Ballooning:
· Causes:
· Seam joining with too densely sewn
· Remedies:
· By cutting a vertical slit of 10-15 cm in length for escaping the air.
b. Intensive foaming:
· Causes:
· Pumping a mixture of air and water
· Remedies:
· By using antifoaming agent
Dyeing faults & their remedies:
o Uneven dyeing:
· Causes:
· Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring, bleaching & mercerizing)
· Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres
· Quick addition of dyes and chemicals
· Lack of control of dyeing m/c
· Remedies:
· By ensuring even pretreatment
· By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres
· By slow addition of dyes and chemicals
· Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
o Shade variation (Batch to batch): Batch to batch shade variation is common in exhaust dyeing which is not completely avoidable. Even though, to ensure a consistent batch to batch production of shade the following matters should be controlled carefully-
· Use standard dyes and chemicals
· Maintain the same liquor ratio
· Follow the standard pretreatment procedure
· Maintain the same dyeing cycle
· Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the shade
· Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature in the process.
· The Ph, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily.
o Dye spot:
· Causes:
· Improper mixing of dyestuff in the solution, in right amount of water, at the temperature.
· Remedies:
· We should pass the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer when adding it to the chemical tank, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed.
o Patchy dyeing:
· Causes:
· Uneven heat in the machine.
· Improper impregnation of dye liquor due to the low wetting property of the fabric.
· Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
· Remedies:
· By proper pretreatment.
· By adding extra wetting agent.
· Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
o Specky dyeing:
· Causes:
· Excessive foam in the dye bath.
· Fall of water droplets on fabric surface before or after dyeing.
· In sufficient after treatment.
· Remedies:
· By using antifoaming agent.
· Sufficient after treatment.
· By using a good wetting agent in the dye bath.
FINISHING
Machine Description for Finishing Section:
Finishing section is consisting of two lines. They are –
- Tube line
- Open line
- The machine that are used for open line are given bellow –
– Slitting and Dewatering machine
– Stenter machine
– Compector machine
- The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow –.
– Dewatering machine
– Dryer
– Compector machine
Tube Line:
Machine name : Dewatering machine
Brand name : Heliot & Beneks
Origin : France & Turkey
Machine name : Dryer machine
Brand name : PMM
Origin : Turkey
Machine name : Compactor machine
Brand name : Tubetex & Sekteks
Origin : USA & Turkey
Open line
Machine name : Slitting & Dewatering machine
Brand name : Bianco Slitting machine
Origin : Italy
Machine name : Stenter machine
Brand name : LK & LH Co. Ltd
Origin : Taiwan
Machine name : Open Compactor machine
Brand name : Bianco
Origin : Italy
Machine Name : Bag Sewing Machine
Brand Name : Tunna Makine
Origin : Turkey
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
The Quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the material in process and various stages of its manufacturing.
OBJECTS OF QUALITY CONTROL:
– Research or analysis.
– Selection of raw materials.
– Process control and development.
– Product testing.
– Specification test.
– Should be given economic requirements.
– Quality assurance and so on.
? The way to bulk production :
In this topic we are going to discuss about the role & responsibilities of testing laboratory from where it is possible to get a direction of doing bulk production of dyed fabric. Here, we tried to present the way by which standard samples are being brought in the factories & principle work done with the sample before bulk production of it.
Firstly, when a buyer goes to a factory with an order, he/she gives a standard sample of fabric or mentions on the book which represents the demand of the buyer.
The type of fabric, the color of fabric everything include to their demand. This is the object of an industry to produce the product with complete satisfaction of buyers.
The laboratory dyeing techniques & procedure are given below –
LABORATORY WORK
1. Development of lab dip
2. Physical test
3. Chemical test
4. Purity test (dyes and chemicals)
Development of lab dip:
Receiving standard swatch
Spectrophotometer reading
Recipe start up software
Start up recipe given
Manual dispersion (pipatting) Auto dispersion machine
| Pot dyeingUnload
Normal wash Acid wash
Hot wash Cold Rinsing
Drying |
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| Pot dyeingUnload
Normal wash Acid wash Hot wash Cold Rinsing Drying |
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4. Purity test
Purity tests of dyes and chemicals are not done in the lab because of the good will of the supplier. But still for dyes, especially newly introduced dyes, the sample is dyed with the new one and then compared with previous samples by visual observation and then they check new sample’s absorbency, strength, and fastness.
? Colour measurement of standard samples :-
Color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as perfectly as possible. Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard one is compulsory. Color measurement can be done by two methods –
In manual method, the std. sample’s color is measured by comparing it with previously produced samples of different tri-chromatic color combination. The sample with which the color of the std. matched, that sample’s color recipe is being taken for shade matching .This method’s accuracy completely depends on the vision of the person related to it but person must be needed gather experience about color matching.
The instrumental method is more reliable if it is operated accurately to do the work of color measurement. “Spectrophotometer” interfaced with a PC is used for shade matching .This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of light at different wave length. When the standard sample is being subjected under spectrophotometer, then the instrument suggest a recipe with required tri-chromatic colors within the tolerance limit of color difference. In this way, color measurement of the standard sample is carried out for the purpose of shade matching.
PREPARATION AND STORAGE OF STOCK DYES AND CHEMICALS:
Preparation of Concentration of stock dye soln –
Normally 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5% and 2% stock solution of dyes are prepared in beakers for daily used.
Preparation of Concentration of stock chemical soln –
Similarly 25% salt and 25% soda stock solutions are prepared in beakers for daily use.
DYES AND CHEMICALS MEASURING FORMULA FOR LABORATORY:
The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow –
Fabric weight x Shade %
Amount of dye soln (ml) = ——————————————-
Concentration of stock dye soln %
Example –
In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5gm
Shade % = 2%
[If used 0. 5 % stock soln of dyes] then ,
5 X 2
Amount of dye soln (ml) = ——— = 20ml .
0. 5
The amount of chemical soln (ml) is measured as follow –
Fabric wt. * M : L * g/l
Amount of chemical soln (ml) = ————————————–
1000 * Conc. of stock soln %
Example –
In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5 gm
Salt = 20 g/l
M: L = 10
[ if taken 25 % stock soln of salt ] then ,
5 x 10 x 20
Amount of chemical soln (ml) = ——————— = 4 ml
1000 x 0.25
QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM:
Off-line Tests:
All the Off-line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows,
1) Physical test
a. GSM
b. Spirality test
c. Shrinkage test
d. Pilling test
2) Chemical test or Color fastness test
a. Fastness to perspiration.
b. Fastness to light and perspiration.
c. Fastness to rubbing and crocking.
d. Fastness to wash.
e. Fastness to light.
On-Line Tests:
1) For Pretreatment –
– pH test.
– Absorbency test.
– Fabric width measure.
– Whiteness test.
– Water quality test.
2) For Dyeing –
– Shade matching check.
– pH check.
– Wash fastness Check.
– GSM checking
3) Machine checking.
QUALITY STANDARD:
In SKL are mainly followed AATCC, Oeko-Tex Standard and ISO methods. Selection of the method depends on the buyer requirements. Most of the American buyers prefer AATCC and Oeko-Tex method. For the European buyers ISO method is followed.
SKL, is certified by Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and ISO 9001:2000
Shortly described about Oeko-Tex standard 100:
Oeko-Tex std. 100 certificates are designed by the International Association for Research & Testing considering the consumer safety & environment protection for the purchase of textiles. This certificate ensures “Confidence in Textiles – tested forharmful substances” & show to the consumer that goods bought by them are free from any hazards to health such as ,
f. Formaldehyde.
g. Toxic pesticides.
h. Penta Chloro Phenol.
i. Heavy metal traces.
j. Azo dyes which release carcinogenic amines.
k. Halogen carriers.
l. Chlorine bleaching.
m. PH of the aqueous extract.
Oeko-Tex std. 100 from ecological point on textile substrates (Yarn, Fabric, garments etc.) marked by textile manufacturers. This does not depend solely on the dyestuffs. It also depends on the processing conditions, various chemicals & other auxiliaries used in the manufacture of such a substrate.
So, Oeko-Tex std. 100 is not a quality label, it is just only ensures the safety of the textile goods and eco-labeled.
These products tested in foreign countries and it is done by the buyers.
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Spectro Photometer
SpectroPhotometry involves the use of a spectroPhotometer. A spectroPhotometer is a Photometer (a device for measuring light intensity) that can measure intensity as a function of the color, or more specifically, the wavelength of light.
For automatic color matching there are two software that are used,
1. Color tools.
2. DCI match.
In DCI color match the machine is first calibrated by a white and a color tiles. Then here the color is selected or retrieved. For having the percentage of different colors for the selected shades these soft wares are used.
After dyeing the sample with the sample dyeing machine the specimen is putted again into the spectro-Photometer for the assessment of the shade.
The software then gives a clear of the shade. If the shade does not match then it shows the reason also for taking further step.
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Crock meter
The AATCC Crock meter is the official instrument of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. The Crock meter tests the transference of color from the surface of one material to another by either wet or dry rubbing. Test conditions are controlled and reproducible through the use of standard pressure and motion.
The rubbing arm is attached to the hook.
Center a piece of abrasive paper, abrasive side up, on the base of the Crock meter.
The paper’s long dimension should be in the direction of the rubbing.
The specimen is placed flat and face-up on the abrasive paper. The specimen’s long dimension should be in the direction of the rubbing.
A piece of test cloth is centered over the finger so that the weave is parallel with the direction of rubbing. Wrap the sides of the cloth evenly around the finger, making sure the cloth is smooth and taut over the finger’s rubbing area.
The covered finger is then lowered onto the test specimen.
The cycle counter is reset.
The handle is turned at the rate
of one turn per second for ten times. (Each back and forth motion of the arm equals one stroke and at a speed of 1 stroke/second.)
· After 10 strokes the specimen is removed and compared with the gray scale.
The acceptable range is normally 3.
QUALITY CONTROL STANDARD VALUES:
Wash fastness test by ROTAWASH: PROCEDURE OF LAB DIP:
For 100% cotton fabric (all in method) –
· Fabric weight measured by electric balance.
· Calculate the recipe.
· Keep the fabric in the pot.
· Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are taken to the pot by pipe ting .
· Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depend on types of dyes being used.
Program – 1: For light shade
Fixed temp. = 600c
Time = 60 min.
Program – 2: For dark shade
Fixed temp. = 800c
Time = 60 min.
· After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times.
· Acid wash for neutralization.
· Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950c.
· Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard.
For Polyester/cotton blend fabric (all in method) –
· Fabric weight measured by electric balance.
· Calculate the recipe for polyester part.
· Keep the fabric in the pot.
· Then required amount of dyes, water, dispersing agent, acetic acid and sodium acetate are taken to the pot by pipetting.
· Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature are carried out for 30 min. at 1300c.
· After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times.
· Then reduction clearing by hydrose, caustic & detergent for
20 min at 700c.
· Cold wash then drying and match with the standard sample.
Again,
· Calculate the recipe for cotton part.
· Keep the fabric in the pot.
· Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are taken to the pot by pipetting .
· Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depends on what types of dyes are being used.
Program – 1:
Fixed temp. = 600c
Time = 60 min.
Program – 2 :
Fixed temp. = 800c
Time = 60 min.
· Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950c.
· Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard sample.
RANGE OF SALT AND SODA ACCORDING TO THE SHADE %:
| Shade % | Crystal salt ( g/L) | Soda ash ( g/L ) |
| 0- 0.1 | 20 | 10 |
| 0.1 – 0.5 | 30 | 15 |
| 0.5 – 1 | 40 | 20 |
| 1 – 2 | 50 | 20 |
| 2 – 3 | 60 | 20 |
| 3-4 | 70 | 20 |
| 4-5 | 80 |